Broncolor Flash Pack Bonanza

[Bernice Loui]

Enough light, depends on needs.

Quantium, Norman 200B/C, 400B, Lumedyne, Sunpak, Profoto B1, Elinchrom one and .. happened from a need back in the days when wedding/event/sports photographers needed a higher power portable strobe system. They are rooted in the Strobo Research then sold to Graflex portable strobe systems circa later 1940's. Rated power of 200watt/seconds was intended to replace flash bulbs (not quite enough light output) for 4x5 press photographers. Since that time this concept has evolved into the similar power portable strobe systems of today that incorporate TTL via camera and more control of strobe light output..

There was a time when nearly every wedding/event photographer used a Norman 200B as a portable strobe light. Eventually Quantium introduced a radio remote system to trigger the Norman 200B and others.. Quantium sold LOTs of these back then and they had "issues"...

These portable strobe systems are good for digital, most medium format and for some sheet film lighting needs if the light output and light output from the light modifier is not typical f22. At best these 200watt/second units could do f8 out of a 2 f-stop reduction light modifier at maybe 3-5 feet distance to subject. Portraits are an example were these portable strobe units can work with sheet film if the exposure aperture is about f8 given their up to 200watt/second output and light modifier involved..

This 27" Elinchrom "beauty dish" is set up with a S3000 head, used often to make quick table top images using about 200watt/seconds into the S3000 head produces about f8 at 3-4 feet to subject. Light modifier like this will not easily work/fit with these 200/watt second portable units as they are not designed to fit/support a light modifier like this.


Given 200watt/seconds produces f8, ISO 100:

~400watt/seconds = f11
~800watt/second = f16
~1600watt/seconds = f22
~3200watt/seconds = f32

f32 is just enough for 4x5 / 5x7 table top once bellows factor and other light loss has been "figured in". All that flash/strobe power gets "used up" pretty quick or why these modern portable strobe units simply do not work for these LF sheet film images.. Gets more involved and power needy once more than one light source is applied.

Once the exposure aperture becomes smaller as in the example of product or table top or interior or similar using sheet film and exposure apertures of f16 and smaller, none of these 200watt/second portable strobe system can approach the power levels needed to achieve these exposure apertures with a light modifier added. This is when there is no substitute for these "vintage" studio strobe units..

Elinchrom 3000AS, with two S3000 heads plugged in, lighting ratio is independently controlled to easily adjust light ratio as needed to 0.10 f-stop and it remains consistent per flash and consistent with light color temperature. Remote triggered via Pocket Wizard radios.



Much about what the specific lighting needs are, much like all else in this foto stuff, always a set of trade-offs with none being ideal.

Bernice

Would this provide enough light?
https://qtm.com/shop/q-flash-model-x...d-200-400-w-s/

[Bernice Loui]

Multi flash/pops used to gain light exposure on film can have a different set of problems depending on how many flash/pops are required to achieve the desired film exposure.

~Reciprocity failure is possible.
~Color shift due to multi flash/pops.
~Set up or subject shift causing slight blur.
~ Each f-stop gained goes by double.. two flash/pops = one f-stop gain, four flashes/pops = two f-stop gain ..

Ideal to avoid this when possible, but it was very commonly done back in the day due to the limits of strobe/flash power available.
The sport car foto example in this Sinar info notes Sports Car Example:
https://www.pacificrimcamera.com/rl/01388/01388.pdf

~13x18 cm SINAR P
~480 mm Apo Ronar DB lens
~Ektachrome 64 Daylight film
~Bellows hood mask 2
~SINARSIX-digital, Module 2
~SINAR DIGITAL shutter
~80 sec at f/22 and 20 flashes

Bernice

[wclark5179]

I most always used my Quantum’s on low power, giving me almost instant recycle. Always off camera flash with Pocket Wizards. They are terrific. I set the ISO on the camera(s) to either 400 or 800. I ran the camera(s) in manual mode so as I could control exposure striking a balance between ambient and flash. I would sometimes use a gel to balance the light of the flash with ambient, corrected later with Bridge/Photoshop. I used at least two cameras each with different lenses which then I didn’t take the clients time fooling around with equipment. I had fun with this as I didn’t get confused with the outcome of the images clients liked. I hired at least one extra photographer for each gig.

I was very busy with my business. I loved it and clients could tell it.

[Bernice Loui]

Off camera flash is a BIG plus in many ways. Lighting is often not appreciated enough by image makers. IMO, using off camera flash offers a featured lighting that can never be achieved using on-camera_direct-on flash..

Suggestion, consider using ISO 100 or lower ISO unless the ambient lighting cannot be matched to the shutter speed and exposure aperture needed. Ideally, the lighting balance is done as the image is captured. This business of off camera flash combined with balancing ambient lighting and exposure aperture can and does make ALL the difference when properly done.

A practice that has been applied since the flash bulb days,
Bernice

I most always used my Quantum’s on low power, giving me almost instant recycle. Always off camera flash with Pocket Wizards. They are terrific. I set the ISO on the camera(s) to either 400 or 800. I ran the camera(s) in manual mode so as I could control exposure striking a balance between ambient and flash. I would sometimes use a gel to balance the light of the flash with ambient, corrected later with Bridge/Photoshop. I used at least two cameras each with different lenses which then I didn’t take the clients time fooling around with equipment. I had fun with this as I didn’t get confused with the outcome of the images clients liked. I hired at least one extra photographer for each gig.

I was very busy with my business. I loved it and clients could tell it.

[wclark5179]

On camera flash I equate to deer in the headlights.

Three biggies for people photography:

Lighting. How to sculp with it.

Posing

Composition

Yes, you are correct, best to get it correct in camera.

I would adjust color temperature during the process stage. But I had to get balance between ambient and flash when making the photographs.

Fun stuff!

[Bernice Loui]

Heh.. On camera flash = "Deer in the Head lights" yes indeediee, it remains The most common method of added artificial lighting.

One more biggie for people photography, Expression.

These "biggies" are often Far more important to the image created than camera used..


Bernice

On camera flash I equate to deer in the headlights.

Three biggies for people photography:

Lighting. How to sculp with it.

Posing

Composition

Yes, you are correct, best to get it correct in camera.

I would adjust color temperature during the process stage. But I had to get balance between ambient and flash when making the photographs.

Fun stuff!

[wclark5179]

“These "biggies" are often Far more important to the image created than camera used.”

Absolutely!

Now we perhaps should get back to our regularly scheduled program on Broncolor!

I’ll start a thread, if the moderators approve, on people photography. Can use a large format camera or a smart phone. Equipment not the most important.But it certainly helps! Matter of fact I’ve seen a few folks making photographs using large format some with unique processing.

Photography is fun! Smiles.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Getting back to BIGGIE strobes, what I find to get expensive, are the light modifiers/accessories for these units. ""Painfully acquired over time" as Bernice puts it. Exactly right. But even so deals are out there. Not something for nothing, but lots of bang for the Buck. More pieces are on the way for me so making slow good progress. Getting a lot for what I am spending

[bmikiten]

Many years ago, I had a Broncolor kit purchased from our local Sinar dealer. I'm thinking of getting another system for B/W 8x10 portraits on the road. I'm watching kits on Ebay but lost track of what is what in the line. Is there a guide that will show me what is current, shouldn't be purchased (due to parts) and what can be repaired? I've done a few searches but none really give me insight.

TIA

[Daniel Unkefer]

Many years ago, I had a Broncolor kit purchased from our local Sinar dealer. I'm thinking of getting another system for B/W 8x10 portraits on the road. I'm watching kits on Ebay but lost track of what is what in the line. Is there a guide that will show me what is current, shouldn't be purchased (due to parts) and what can be repaired? I've done a few searches but none really give me insight.

TIA

I would get in touch with your local Broncolor Dealer. Also peruse the website; Broncolor has always offered fantastic customer support, they sure have helped me a lot in the past. Can't afford new here; Happy to purchase used for some really great deals. I've been buying Broncolor bits and pieces new from B&H in NYC recently. And just bought a used Octobox 150 from Adorama for about half price. That's more my speed BTW Profoto Speed Rings also fit Broncolor and I've read much better made than the Broncolor ones (the Broncolor ones tend to fall apart!)

The Main Website:

https://broncolor.swiss/

Broncolor Youtubes are plentiful and walk you through some of the limitless possibilities regarding lighting modifiers