Or take the opposite approach - One sheet at a time to control the variables for each shot. It will change how and what you shoot once your get in the LF sheet mindset.
The magic you are looking for is in the work you are avoiding.
http://www.searing.photography
Trays always work
Sometimes I process 1 or 2 in the next size up tray
Particularly glass plate
I can do that by inspection
with some, not all
I use a plastic spatula for lifting as the bottom is clear glass
Tin Can
Perfect, if it works for you. I have the Stearman 4x5" tank and have tried three different versions of the holders but the clips along the sides of the holders always gouge the emulsion of my film. Plus, over the years I've had off-and-on "ghosting" issues whereby there's a slight shadow image on the film of the holes in the holder. Others love this tank and have never had a single issue...it just didn't work out for me.
The drain/fill is small and slow and I think it might not be suitable for very fast steps like c41 sometimes is, without doing as you suggest. My B&W develop times are 11-14:30 depending on film, so no real hurry getting it drained/filled. Once fixer goes in, the top comes off anyways and fix finishes and washing is done in normal room light. I do have two tanks because I like them and wanted a spare. It's handy once in a while to do twelve sheets running two tanks.
If you have access to total darkness for processing, my vote would be for tray processing.
I've been tray processing 4x5 film for 35+ years. I find it the most flexible of all the options. You can develop for how long you like, add sheets that need shorter development times during the processing, easily do reduced agitation, etc.
There is a bit of a learning curve. You have to be careful when shuffling through the stack in the tray not to get film crossed up and scratch a sheet. It took me a few times practicing with scrap sheet with the lights on, then the lights out and then a couple of runs with not-so-important negatives to feel confident I had the proper technique. After that, I never looked back.
Investment is minimal: 4-5 5x7 trays plus the usual graduates and containers (which you would have anyway). I like Paterson 5x7 trays for tray developing 4x5; some like 8x10 trays. Those work fine too, and you may already have them, they just need a bit more solution volume.
There are lots of tutorials and descriptions of tray processing here and over on Photrio.com if that's the route you want to go.
Best,
Doremus
http://davidkachel.com/wpNewDK/wp-co...gInTubes-1.pdf
this has been my technique for the last 25 years or so. I've only used it for fairly low volumes -- 5 sheets of 4x5 in an 8x10 tray for example, but It's been a good method for me.
The only issue I've had is the antihalation dye does not get 100% removed from Kodak T-Max films (and possibly others). A fairly short bath after fixing in something mildly alkaline fixes it up just fine. In my case I use the exhausted developer from the same run (I use dev exclusively one-shot) and it's fine, but 10g of sodium carbonate in a liter of water is just as good. I do a two step fix. First fix in the tubes, second fix in little sandwich sized trays, one sheet to a tray. Then the alkalai bath, then wash in the tiny trays.
I mostly use ilford sheet films and with them have not had the AH dye issue.
I use a Stearman, I've done dip and dunk, Nikor reels, trays and for the amount of 4x5 I do (not a whole lot), I find the Stearman perfect for my needs. YMWV. Depends on your budget and how many sheets you are doing. Once a while, i will still do trays for example, if I have a few 8x10's, I do trays, and then why not, I stick some 4x5's in there after a run.
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