Best 250 for architecture from a distance for a field camera

[Christianganko]

Good evening all

Currently doing a project but some locations are a little far for me to get to without getting myself run over.

I was looking at the fujinon W 250 6.3 as this seems like a popular choice for a 250 and covers 4x5 easily.

Would you LF heads know of any better??

Shooting in BW and using a linhof 4x5 technika

Thank you!

[Mick Fagan]

I have that exact same lens and using it with my SHen Hao HZX45-IIA wooden folder have found it to be excellent; effectively superseding my 210mm lens.

Brilliant coverage, small enough and has also been a stand out portrait lens, which wasn't what I thought it would be doing.

One day I thought I would do a direct comparison between my 150 and 250 lenses. The camera, apart from fine focusing and changing lenses, wasn't moved at all.

Forgot to mention that the 250mm image was cropped slightly more, but the drawing power of the 250 over the 150 is quite obvious. From the 210mm lens I've been using for yonks, the 250mm is the bees knees.

[Lachlan 717]

The Fujinon 250mm f6.7 has a larger IC (could be important for architecture). It is single coated, though.

Both Fujinon 240mm A and G Claron 240mm might also fit the bill. These are f9, though, but have large ICs.

[citychicago]

I have the CM Fujinon W 250mm f6.7 and it's incredibly sharp. I use it on a 4x5 Linhof Technika (and a 5x7 Canham) and have yet to reach the edge of the image circle.
Be sure to read http://www.thalmann.com/largeformat/fujinon.htm for lots of info on Fujinon lenses.

[Bernice Loui]

What lens exposure aperture will be most often used?

Honestly, do not limit lens choice to the web TooT_ed Fujinon lenses as modern plasmats as a lens formula family are FAR more similar than different.
Those LPM test are no where near as revealing or conclusive as they should be, distilling the absolute good_ness of any particular lens to a single number based on interpreted LPM with the many challenges fixed for any kind of camera/film/processing/visual interpretation testing..

What is often perceived as "Sharp".. can be not more than higher contrast not "sharper". Add to this, there are always production variations among lenses small as they may be within modern production methods and tolerances.

All that said, DO consider any 250mm/240mm f5.6_ish Plasmat from any of the big four.. Rodenstock, Fujinon, Schneider Nikkor.. Yes, there will be variations is coating and contrast rendition.. Generally, their image circle releative to 4x5 will be more than plenty and beyond the camera movement capability of a 4x5 Linhof Technika. Know any 250mm/240mm Plasmat will be large.. Do use the proper off center lens board specific to the Technika to optimize possible camera movements..

Most often used lens exposure aperture is significant as this has a direct impact on the overall size/weight and all related to the specific lens. Alternative lens like a 240mm f9 G-Claron wil be smaller and all that compared to a f5.6_ish Plasmat with nil performance difference on film.

Keep in mind the great lens performance equalizer is f22... Then comes contrast, color rendition, into out of focus rendition (of zero importance to some) and a long list of other lens personality traits that may or may not be significant to your specific image goals..


Essentially, don't make lens choices based on what is found on the web as lens choice is FAR more complex than what has gained popularity due to web based promo.. There is no "best lens" just a mixed baggie of trade-offs.

Bernice

[Drew Wiley]

Just how big do you need to print? I've got a 30X40 inch Cibachrome right beside me on the wall that you'd need a loupe to see all the detail in, and I shot it 4x5 using the old Fuji 250/6.7. A tiny Fuji A 250/9 (MC) or 250/9 Glaron (SC) is even sharper; and all these lenses have a big enough image circle to cover even 8x10 film comfortably. But you might want to stay away from the bulky 250/5.6's in big no. 3 shutter from Schneider, Rodenstock, or Nikon simply due to their much greater toting weight and size. Don't worry about the minor distinction between single-coated and multi-coated options. You need an effective lens shade either way pointed into the sun; but the difference in end result, in either color or black and white film, is so minor that few people would even notice it. And your original hunch of a Fuji W 250/6.3 would be excellent, just as long as you aren't thinking of graduating into 8x10 format later.

[Christianganko]

Thank you all for the examples, links and inifo!

In all honesty I think a 6.3 or 6.7 is as dark as I can deal with. All my lenses are 5.6. I have the newest GL and fresnal for the linhof and they help a lot thats for sure.

Lens size is not a terrible issue. But i will take into account.

Print wise its undecided yet. Its at initial stages and more than likely goimng into a book first. But of course its always at the back of my mind.

I think unless I see a huge sway otherwise through stuff i will research I will mostl likely go for the fujinon. My 150 is fuji and its an awesome lens.

Will see whats out there!

Thank you again!

[Vaughn]

I agree with Drew. Although if size and weight are not an issue at all, then one of the 5.6 plasmats at a great price will also do you well.

I use a Fuji 250/6.7 for 8x10 (contact printing only) and it has proven to be a wonderful lens...but I also carry the Fuji 300mm/5.6 brick! Oh...and their 360mm/6.3 finds it way into the pack sometimes...a lead brick!

Since you (and architectural photo in general) do not seem to be looking for an unusual 'look', the Fuji 250/6.3 are inexpensive, small and good quality. Their 180mm/5.6 is pretty sweet, too. I am using one with the inside writing (single-coated) for 5x7.

[jnantz]

Wollensak tele optar (10") is a great lens, coated short bellows draw ... usually a barrel but you can find it factory installed in an alphax shutter I think.. or get the wizards at SK GRIMES to install it into a shutter for you. if you find a barrel a great guy and repair man "whir-click" might have a shutter to mount it in, I know he had a part I needed for one of my oldies and is an alphax betax guru, if offered a betax shutter, grab it, they are priceless!

added later:
What kind of photographs do you like to make? My suggestion was for negatives with crispness and contrast, if pictorial imagery floats your boat ... look for either a chrome barreled Schneider Symmar convertible 150/265 or 135/235 take the front element off its the longer FL, but be aware, the focal node is further back so infinity might need IDK 70-80mm more bellows? ) or look for a 10" Wollensak Portrait Veritar, its in an Alphax shutter usually, used wide open gives you a pictorial soft image stopped down it's sharp.

[Mark Sampson]

I haven't used them, so can't comment on the Fuji lenses in question. Of course they have a fine reputation, as seen in the previous posts.
I do have a 10" Wollensak Tele-Optar. It's barrel-mounted and I use it, occasionally, on a 3x4 Speed Graphic. Finding one of those in a shutter might take a while.
However, I also own a Nikkor-M 300/9. Its optical qualities are superb, and it would easily fit on the OP's Linhof Technika. It's been my go-to 'long' lens on 4x5 for over 25 years, and I'd recommend it most highly.