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Thread: Zone VI Type II 8x10 VC Head Problem

  1. #11

    Join Date
    Dec 2014
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    Iowa City, Iowa
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    1,552

    Re: Zone VI Type II 8x10 VC Head Problem

    Quote Originally Posted by MLaMaster View Post
    Don't suppose you'd want to get rid of it lol ����
    Oh Boy, I was incredibly lucky to get an 8x10 and a separate 5x7 both type II . I've found date codes indicating these were made in 2001. I use a Metrolux II timer that connects to the built in sensor. I wouldn't trade this setup for LEDs. Works great. I use the 5x7 for 6x17 printing love it.

  2. #12

    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    512

    Re: Zone VI Type II 8x10 VC Head Problem

    Here's a tread talking about Zone VI VC head problems:
    https://www.largeformatphotography.i...zone+8x10+head

  3. #13

    Re: Zone VI Type II 8x10 VC Head Problem

    Quote Originally Posted by Duolab123 View Post
    Oh Boy, I was incredibly lucky to get an 8x10 and a separate 5x7 both type II . I've found date codes indicating these were made in 2001. I use a Metrolux II timer that connects to the built in sensor. I wouldn't trade this setup for LEDs. Works great. I use the 5x7 for 6x17 printing love it.
    Absolutely love my 5x7 type 1 (aside from when I move it trying to relevel. Total PITA)

  4. #14
    Eric Woodbury
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Posts
    1,579

    Re: Zone VI Type II 8x10 VC Head Problem

    Electronic components, except perhaps electrolytic caps, don't fail sitting in a box. And those caps look fine. This is even too young for 'infant mortality'. It must be assumed that the product worked leaving the factory. Connectors are the weakest point in any system because they are so expensive for good ones. Even bad ones are pricey. This failure could be just one wire, one connection, between electronics and the controls. Review all the connections with a magnifier. Check with an ohm-meter.

    Another common failure in such equipment is a 'cold solder joint'. Not common in reflow soldering, but do check the hand-soldered joints. If this doesn't mean much to you, find an electronic hobbyist.

  5. #15

    Join Date
    Dec 2007
    Location
    Washington D.C.
    Posts
    244

    Re: Zone VI Type II 8x10 VC Head Problem

    Since you are using it in an educational environment you need it to work reliably. I would replace the light source with an LED one that is blue and green. Waveform Lighting makes tunable LED strips. They sell the power supplies and everything you need. It may even be cheaper in the long run.

    -Joshua

  6. #16

    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Iowa City, Iowa
    Posts
    1,552

    Re: Zone VI Type II 8x10 VC Head Problem

    Why is everyone so excited about LEDs?? Proper cold lights work great and halogen (or tungsten) lamps are hard to beat. Dichro subtractive heads ruled the earth for 50 years. Kept in good shape t h e old lights are hard to beat. MHOFWIW

  7. #17

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
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    2,021

    Re: Zone VI Type II 8x10 VC Head Problem

    Quote Originally Posted by Joshua Dunn View Post
    Waveform Lighting makes tunable LED strips.
    Might work OK for B&W, but generally it's preferable to use Royal blue for the blue ones and the blue LEDs in RGB products are usually of a longer wavelength.

    @Duolab: everyone is so enthusiastic about LED because it works so well. And no, a cold light or tungsten are NOT hard to beat with LED. In fact it's the opposite. LED is in practice more convenient to work with especially for B&W. There are many naysayers, but they either haven't seen or tried LEDs in the real world or they base their arguments on technology from 20 years ago. Anyway, to each their own of course. I'm not going back to tungsten, let alone cold light, that much I do know.

  8. #18

    Re: Zone VI Type II 8x10 VC Head Problem

    I've never used LEDs for printing. I'm a Zone System photographer so love to get as much info as possible in my shadows and highlights with a nice amount of contrast. I've printed exclusively for the past 20yrs on my Zone VI variable contrast 5x7 enlarger. Before that was condenser enlarger using the Ilford filters. How does one convert a head to LEDs? Does it use the same contrast controls or does it require an entirely new setup? I honestly know nothing at all about them.

  9. #19

    Join Date
    Jun 2014
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    2,021

    Re: Zone VI Type II 8x10 VC Head Problem

    Quote Originally Posted by MLaMaster View Post
    How does one convert a head to LEDs?
    Theoretically, you could (at least in some enlargers) replace the existing tungsten bulb(s) with an appropriately sized (both physically and in terms of power rating) white LED bulb. I have no experience with this, but it would allow the use of for instance existing dichroic filters and their adjustment mechanics. How well this works, I cannot say. There's no clear benefit to it other than becoming independent from tungsten replacements which may or may not be available, and less heat generation in the head. I don't consider this a major upgrade functionality-wise; it's more of a stop-gap measure IMO.

    To do it right, at least in my opinion, isn't so much converting a head to LED but electrically rebuilding it from the ground up. There are many ways of doing this and they range from simple DIY solutions to fairly high-tech store-bought ones (e.g. the Heiland systems). If you're not in a position to DIY something or have someone build something for you, the Heiland system is the way to go, albeit a pricey solution. I opted for a DIY approach because it was within reach. I had a pair of dichroic enlargers (305 for 35mm and 605 for up to 6x6cm) and an Ilford 500 on a 138, but I ditched everything except the 138 chassis which I added a LED system to. Initially I kept the 605 as well as the 500 in storage in case the LED thing didn't pan out, but in no-time both the 605 and the 500 were collecting dust as the LED thing just worked as well or better overall.

  10. #20

    Join Date
    Dec 2014
    Location
    Iowa City, Iowa
    Posts
    1,552

    Re: Zone VI Type II 8x10 VC Head Problem

    Someday I will buy a Heiland source for one of my Beseler 4x5 chassis' The only way to know for sure. I'm not ambitious enough to try and build one. I haven't had good luck with the cheapo, China made medium base LED "bulbs" I had one literally pop, the other day. I thought one of my cats had destroyed something, I came to find plastic pieces in a bathroom sink and wires, from the bulb, hanging from the fixture. Never seen that before.

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