Very Cool. Since you have an original factory Norma 360mm Compound Automatic Iris lens, you should get a Norma Shutter to put behind the Front Standard.
Fabulous!
Very Cool. Since you have an original factory Norma 360mm Compound Automatic Iris lens, you should get a Norma Shutter to put behind the Front Standard.
Fabulous!
Flikr Photos Here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/
“The secret of getting ahead is getting started.”
― Mark Twain
Well, I made a blunder last night by not sizing my images properly, so they got rejected. I've gone through and re-inserted proper sized photos, so I hope things are better!
pjd: I'll post an image or two of the mill and lathe, but I didn't take any of the actual process of this build.
Daniel: I know almost nothing about the Norma shutter. I looked around a bit online, but I'm wondering if you could point me to a good place to learn more. What I've found so far has been confusing because it's been threads between folks who already know something about it.
I'll continue now with some more about the camera.
This next image shows most of the things I've put together for this project, including the closed and secured part of the camera, plus the various lengths of brass rod I've made for differing extensions of the bellows.
Here's a sort of graphical arrangements of my lenses for this outfit. The top row has those with their own shutters, mounted on Toyo boards. The bottom row has those I've mounted on 1/4-inch Baltic birch, to fit into the 3x4 Speed Graphic shutter. And the lenses are arranged from left to right in order of their focal length: 760mm f/14 Apo Ronar, 485mm f/9 Apo Romar, 360mm f/5.6 (620mm f/12) Symmar Convertible, [the 3x4 shutter], 210mm f/5.6 Fujinon W, 162mm f/4.5 Wollensak Enlarging Raptar, 135mm f/4.5 Wollensak Enlarging Raptar, 105mm f/4.5 Tominon [made for a medical specimen camera], and a Tominon 75mm f/4.5 close-up lens.
Here's a closer image of some of the wooden things I made: the bellows supporter and the two lens caps. The smaller cap has two lips because it needs to go over two not-so-deep rings on the 485mm lens. I might make more of these; it was really fun to watch them so quickly take form, and wood is much more forgiving of impreciseness. That's a Good Thing for someone like me, who is just starting out with these tools.
Here's a different view of the same items.
Next, some views of the back. Here, you can see the ground glass back rotated.
Your attachments in the last two post comes back with an error message - Invalid Attachment specified.
You have a done a great job the camera. Well thought out and a nice camera to look at for its size. I was particularly interested in your method of making the ground glass. I have been enjoying the detailed posts as the project progressed. Nice work.
And here is a view of the inside of the ground glass protector, with the magnets in the corners. They hold it on pretty well, but I think I'm going to put four more on it, in the mid-points of each side, where there are corresponding steel bits on the Burke and Jame back. I don't find the current set-up quite strong enough. I made this protector out of 1/8 and 1/4 inch thick Sapele, and the wood sits back a fair distance from the glass, to avoid flexing and possible breaking of the glass. I was pleasantly surprised to find the Sapele very reasonably priced by a seller on eBay. It is very stiff: much stiffer than the Baltic birch plywood. And it machines really well, too.
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