I suggest changing to a traditional developer and fix to help with contrast.
You asked.
I am not sure I fully understand the reason for going through all the trouble of LF and then "cheat" by using a monobath?
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Niels
That is what I needed to hear! Thank you. I will be switching to traditional development with my next order. Any suggestions for the developer?
I like HC110, but I am not super happy when using it with Foma200 (same as your Frankenstein). Rodinal works better to my liking for that film, but others may have more experience and better suggestions.
Assuming you use monobath to simplify things, I’d suggest you use a single shot developer - both of the above mentioned are.
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Niels
GOOD _!_
Continue making more view camera images..
Regarding monobath B&W developers. the concept has been around before the 1900's.. It is valued for ease of chemical processing, not image quality.
Read from page 278 on in this book, "Developing by Jacobson."
http://www.processreversal.org/publi...developing.pdf
Information about history, mix your own and more...
If "Frankenstein 200" is Foma 200, it develops fast in Kodak HC-110. This is why no package recommendations for HC110. Foma 200 can be developed in HC110 using a very dilute ratio of HC110 concentrate to water.
Scanned negatives does not impose the same requirements as negatives made to be optically printed on graded B&W paper. Yes, the same discipline and methods of film negative creations should apply. Never know when or if printing your negatives via the optical/photo-chemical process might or could happen.
The view camera journey begins,
Bernice
I've been happy using HC-110 or Rodinal with 320TXP in sheets or rolls. I've been using Pyrocat HD more and more lately so worth looking into that perhaps ?
notch codes ? I only use one film...
Frankenstein 200 is repackaged FOMA 200, better shot at iso 100.
You can very easily process it in Rodinal (or rodinal clone like Adonal or Fomadon R09) + traditional fixing. This is easy and SUPER cheap to do. Dev cost nothing and fix last forever... The fixator (Adofix) I'm curently using is a 1 litter solution I prepared in last march and it already fixed about a hundred of 4x5 + a few 120 rolls... I test it every 15 sheets or so and toss it when the fixing time reach 5 minutes.
Fixer capacity isn't just clearance time. Have you considered how much silver is actually floating around in your liter of fixer solution? How well will all of this wash out of your film?
Why would you want to risk let's say €50 worth of film to save €2 on fixer?
There's a saying that applies here. It's "penny wise, pound foolish."
Consider also not buying repackaged brands like "Frankenstein." Consistency is key, and ensuring you know what film you are using is very important in case FPP discontinues it.
Last edited by Jason Greenberg Motamedi; 3-Oct-2022 at 13:54. Reason: fotography
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