I like to mix my own chemicals when possible, I have not been successful being able to mix a rapid fix that is easy and saves me dollars. With the cost of a Gallon of Hypam around $50 I am now again looking at doing this
any one here mixing rapid fix from scratch and willing to discuss the pros and cons.?
You ideally need a source for bulk ammonium thiosulfate which is typically sold in 60% solution. You’ll then have to do the math and see if it makes financial sense to mix vs buying large volumes of Ilford or Kodak C-41/Flexicolor.
Contact Alphachem in Mississauga. Terrific bulk chem source and ammonium thiosulfate is in their regular catalog.
Originally Posted by bob carnie
I mixed my own rapid fix for a little while but found that it really wasn't particularly cost-effective vs just buying it pre-made. Perhaps buying the ammonium thiosulfate in larger bulk sizes, as Michael R suggests, would substantially reduce the cost. Anyway, I went back to my long-time standard F-24.
Per Kodak (and this is consistent with my experience) the shelf life of the concentrate in the box, undiluted, is "indefinite." So if it goes bad in well under a year in a cool darkroom something is wrong.
Kevin,
Contact Freestyle and explain the problem. I've found them more than willing to make things good whenever I had problems with paper/chemicals.
FWIW, I use Ilford Rapid Fixer or Hypam (whichever is cheaper whenever I order) these days (I ditched TF-4 too - haven't tried TF-5).
Stock solutions of rapid fixers do go bad over time. Try not to order so long in advance so you don't have to store the fixer stock for such a long time. Remember, you have to add how long you've had the product on your shelf to how long it was in the supply chain and on the dealer shelf...
Best,
Doremus
I also mix my own. F-34 rapid fixer has been working well for me. Got the recipe from digital truth app.
...Dilettante! Who you calling a Dilettante?
I have mixed Ryuji Suzuki's Neutral Fix for years.
ammonium thiosulfate 200ml 60% solution
sodium sulfite 15g
sodium metabisulfite 5g
water to make 1.0 liter
Hi Richard - if you use a double fix how long in each is required with this formula?
tks
Bob
Yes, there is a problem with "Kodak".. Previously noted and verified problems with other Kodak foto chemicals XTOL, Dektol and ?
Time has come to let go of "Kodak" as Kodak is no longer what the brand name Kodak once was.
Kodak foto chemistry and silver paper is produced and brand name owned by Sino Promise, China.
https://www.insideimaging.com.au/202...-sino-promise/
Sino Promise appears to be experiencing difficulties in varied ways.
This is an example of the market value of a brand name and brand identify.. Putting blind "faith" and believe into a brand name without verifying the brand name's product content and actual abilities often results in problems minor to very serious.
The behavior of Kodak company heads has not been ideal for their user base and future in many ways..
https://www.psychologytoday.com/us/b...20late%201970s).
The better long term solution to this problem is to mix your own foto chemicals. It is NOT difficult.
Get a magnetic stirr plate like this:
https://www.amazon.com/Magnetic-stir...94351026&psc=1
Teflon stir bar:
https://www.amazon.com/Noorlee-10pcs...44073421&psc=1
Real chemistry glass ware, beakers as a start:
https://www.amazon.com/Karter-Scient...l%2C136&sr=1-9
Digital gram scale (modern food scale is good enough):
https://www.amazon.com/Etekcity-Mult...87&sr=1-4&th=1
Then dry chemicals as needed from:
https://stores.photoformulary.com/
and MANY other chemical supplies on line today.
As for fixer, basic Kodak formula F24 has worked for decades, easy to mix up and the chemicals are not pricy.
600 ml Water (125F or 45C)
240 g Sodium Thiosulfate
10 g Sodium Sulfite
25 g Sodium Bisulfite
Top up to one litre water
~Mix in the dry chemicals in the formula order from top to bottom. Add the other dry chemicals once the initially added dry chemicals have completely dissolved into water. Problems happen when the order is not followed or if the dry chemicals have not fully dissolved and the other dry chemicals added.
Plain "Hypo"
https://www.largeformatphotography.i...13-Making-Hypo
Not convinced "rapid fixer" has much advantage over plain Sodium Thiosulpate based fixers.
Store the mixed chemistry in glass bottles up to the filler cap reducing as much air in the bottle as possible.
Bernice
Yes Ryuji’s neutral rapid fix is as good as any standard rapid fix and it really doesn’t need to be any more complicated than that. Ammonium thiosulfate is always the active ingredient in rapid fixers.
To answer Bob’s question you can basically use Ilford’s instructions (Rapid/Hypam) at 1+4 dilution for either one or two bath. For example, two bath fixing at 1+4 for FB paper would be 30s in each bath. Etc.
For those interested in or wanting even faster fixing there is also PE’s Superfix I but it contains ammonium thiocyanate and thiourea to complement the ammonium thiosulfate.
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