Refinished LF Wood Camera 'coating' Melting

[Greg]

I just checked—shellac melts at 167º F, could the camera have gotten that hot?

With this heat wave and the sealed box if being left out in the open for a period of time... exceeding 167 degrees doesn't seem to be a problem.

[Drew Wiley]

It could easily be the paint, combined with elevated heat, possibly due to an uncured undercoat too. All the above. ALL paints need a significantly longer cure time than simply the apparent dry time. Items in cars in hot weather can easily get above 150F. Depending on the type of wood, resins or oil could be pulled out toward the surface by that heat too; or there could be failure simply due to improper surface preparation. I've only seen this kind of thing happen about fifty times or more a year, have known entire cabinet and door shops that went bankrupt due to it, combined with inevitable lawsuits. What makes anyone think it's an acrylic paint? The MSDS sheet seems otherwise. I think it's still actually made by Krylon; and my personal experience with this particular product involves at least of month or two of needed outgassing time. Dry to the touch doesn't count.

Wood finishing in a more complex topic than many realize. And numerous spray paints have had changes to their solvents which exacerbate the issue. But what the heck is ordinary aerosol can spray paint doing on a camera in the first place?? What to do, what to do? ... It's probably gotta all be stripped off. Do you know what the actual wood is? That is also important to the discussion.

[LabRat]

Does the camera smell like anything??? Use a very sensitive instrument... Your nose...

Steve K

[Tin Can]

It outgassed a bit as I opened the double box

That was gone quickly

I am sensitive to new car smell too

More when the next one arrives today

[RichardRitter]

Ace Premium Gloss Enamel. Part number 17007. The asin is 0 82901 17007 5

I won't reveal painter

There is part of the problem.

Weather may have played a part. If it was sprayed in heat over 85 degrees the surface flash drys. Leading the person to put a second and third coat on before the prior coats dry out. This causes the out gassing of the solvent in the paint to slow down.

Added to the fact it spent time in a truck in the hot sun in a sealed box for a few days. This heats everything up and the out gassing speeds up. The solvent used is realy bad stuff. The fumes as you stated remelted the finish and Styrofoam

More then likely the camera will have to be refinished.

[Tin Can]

I am very happy to report test shipment #2 just arrived

Same coating, only difference is no styrofoam and perhaps more drying time

and no damage

and this teaches me something for my ongoing 14X36" X-Ray camera build

As I already planned the outside will be very light color or dirty white

Some time ago I almost painted a C1 white, in honor of Karsh and his white camera

https://karsh.org/photographs/winston-churchill/

There is part of the problem.

Weather may have played a part. If it was sprayed in heat over 85 degrees the surface flash drys. Leading the person to put a second and third coat on before the prior coats dry out. This causes the out gassing of the solvent in the paint to slow down.

Added to the fact it spent time in a truck in the hot sun in a sealed box for a few days. This heats everything up and the out gassing speeds up. The solvent used is realy bad stuff. The fumes as you stated remelted the finish and Styrofoam

More then likely the camera will have to be refinished.

[Tin Can]

The paint finally dried this week

The styrofoam was still very stuck/embedded

I finally twigged to a process I had not used in 14 years to clean aluminum engine heads AND NOT change surface RA, meaning no scratches

Really tedious, using many new single edge razor blades

The trick is new blade, often, use only fingers and gently scrape at 90 degrees, pay attention, the engine heads I was cleaning were very expensive prototypes

Takes hours

Then I used Feed & Wax

Looks great now

[Havoc]

The paint finally dried this week

The styrofoam was still very stuck/embedded

I finally twigged to a process I had not used in 14 years to clean aluminum engine heads AND NOT change surface RA, meaning no scratches

Really tedious, using many new single edge razor blades

The trick is new blade, often, use only fingers and gently scrape at 90 degrees, pay attention, the engine heads I was cleaning were very expensive prototypes

Takes hours

Then I used Feed & Wax

Looks great now

Might be useful if I understood what you wrote. Are you scraping the wood finish with the single edge razor blades? Or is this for metal surfaces? And what kind of grime/oxydation do you remove? Likewise "Feed & Wax"... Feed what? Bird seed?

This kind of reaction could be very valuable but then they would have to be clear and understandable to anyone. Not just to those who wrote it.

So could you please write down the specifics?

[Tin Can]

Did you read the whole thread


https://www.howardproducts.com/produ...d-conditioner/

Might be useful if I understood what you wrote. Are you scraping the wood finish with the single edge razor blades? Or is this for metal surfaces? And what kind of grime/oxydation do you remove? Likewise "Feed & Wax"... Feed what? Bird seed?

This kind of reaction could be very valuable but then they would have to be clear and understandable to anyone. Not just to those who wrote it.

So could you please write down the specifics?

[Drew Wiley]

Feed n' Wax : an old school oil & wax finish similar to that found on antique furniture and old wooden cameras, but different from shellac.