510 Pyro - First Impressions

[ajsikel]

post number 13 had nothing to do with diminishing undermining anyones trials>
It stated what it stated and nothing more in between.
OP states that it took him circa 6months to dial in Pyrocat....
How long is it since he hes been dialing in 510?
Trials and experimentation , Im all in , but lets be honest the ordering here is a bit off.

No, im not trying to be rude.
yes, Im trying to get something practical from this very incoherently subjective thread.

I agree. That was basically my point. Particularly in the case of a developer such as 510 pyro, there is little or nothing to go on, so it is up to the individual user to figure things out and come to a subjective conclusion, in which case experimentation along with best efforts at some semblance of controlled comparisons - including prints - is a reasonable approach.

In other words, I disagree with the points made in post #13. The fact many people have written about this developer is pretty much irrelevant. It doesn’t make your own testing unnecessary, and it doesn’t diminish the value in sharing your results.

[jag09]

Thank you for the reminder and heads up

[Tin Can]

I tried 510, it worked

but I dislike thick gooey pipets

[tundra]

I tried 510, it worked

but I dislike thick gooey pipets

I found that mixing the stock solution 1:2 with propylene glycol for storage and then using 3x that solution as one would of stock works fine.

[Tin Can]

I no longer TRY various concoctions

Using up my good supply of Rodinol

Then switching to D23

Making D-23 Developer With Teaspoons

[tundra]

I no longer TRY various concoctions

Using up my good supply of Rodinol

Then switching to D23

Making D-23 Developer With Teaspoons

I like D-23 a lot and use it in certain specialized situations - e.g. Rescuing very old film that will not properly process in Pyrocat-HD without massive bromide drag (semistand). Noted, for example, with some circa 1970s Plus-X sheet film.

However, for most uses, I find the Pyrocat produces noticeably better grain results, hence i use it most of the time.

[tundra]

post number 13 had nothing to do with diminishing undermining anyones trials>
It stated what it stated and nothing more in between.
OP states that it took him circa 6months to dial in Pyrocat....
How long is it since he hes been dialing in 510?
Trials and experimentation , Im all in , but lets be honest the ordering here is a bit off.

No, im not trying to be rude.
yes, Im trying to get something practical from this very incoherently subjective thread.

Everything about creating compelling images is "subjective". I already made it clear that I've spent nowhere near the time with 510 as I have Pcat. But the little I have done doesn't compel me to dig much deeper.

Other than the need for internet bloviating, I'm not sure what your point here is.

[Sert]

can i use this developer with kodafix? i bought this but found out i dont have any alkaline or neutral fixers

[koraks]

Yes, that'll work fine. You don't really need to use an alkaline or neutral fix; an acid fix will work just fine and the pyro stain really won't be gone.

[esearing]

I found that mixing the stock solution 1:2 with propylene glycol for storage and then using 3x that solution as one would of stock works fine.

I do the same with Jay's Obsidian Aqua formula since it is really tough to make 100ml batches, I just double the water to make 200ml at half strength and adjust the final working solution. You can get away with that with most Pyro based developers but may not get full shelf life or forget you are at half strength to begin with (Mark the bottle appropriately). I really like this OA/2 formula for HP5 @ 2:5:500, its just a little sharper than my usual Pyrocat M and has a rich stain color that lets me print at grade 2.5 for most scenes if exposed properly. Part B is the standard Part B for Pyrocat HD.