FP4 or HP5 in PMK Pyro For Making Platinum/Palladium Prints?

[LFLarry]

I am hopeful that someone here in the forum can share their experience with using either FP4 or HP5 developed in PMK for making Platinum & Palladium Prints?

If you would be willing to share your film of choice (FP4 or HP5) along with your development dilution (e.g., 2:2:100), method (e.g., tray, rotary, etc), and time, it would give me a starting place to start exploring what works best for my style.

If you have any Pt/Pd prints that you made with your film and development method, that would be inspirational to see.

Thank you in advance.

Warm regards,

Larry

[Vaughn]

Lots of Pt/pd prints on all sorts of film. FP4+ is one of my mainstays. In PyrocatHD 2:2:100 at 72F for around 8 minutes depending on the SBR -- but also in Ilford Universal PQ Developer if you want to try a non-staining developer.

Expands easier than HP5+. I tend towards high contrast negatives that print without any contrast control.

Generally, I can't tell from the prints which film/dev I used.

[LFLarry]

Thanks, Vaughan. I assume PMK is going to possibly be a different dilution vs Pyrocat HD and different development times?

I have read the articles by Sandy King on Pyrocat HD and there is some reference to the possible differences in development time between Pyrocat HD and PMK, but since I have never used either developer, I am not really sure.

I really had not thought about Ilford Universal PQ because it is not a staining developer and I just assumed that Pyro developers would be a good choice for UV-based printing processes.

Thank you.

Lots of Pt/Pd prints on all sorts of film. FP4+ is one of my mainstays. In PyrocatHD 2:2:100 at 72F for around 8 minutes depending on the SBR -- but also in Ilford Universal PQ Developer if you want to try a non-staining developer.

Expands easier than HP5+. I tend towards high contrast negatives that print without any contrast control.

Generally, I can't tell from the prints which film/dev I used.

[Vaughn]

A British photographer who back-engineered many of the old processes (Terry King -- no relation to Sandy) recommended FP4+ and Ilford Universal PQ developer especially for Pt/pd printing. He liked the way it expanded/seperated the mid-tones. Depending on the scene's brightness range, I used it from normal film strength (1:19) to paper strength (1:9) for negatives for both Pt/pd and carbon printing. I have also has success using Dektol in the same manner (straight to 1:2).

Years ago I used some different staining developers. I am using PyrocatHD now. I develop in Expert Drums on a Unicolor motor base. Oxidation seems to be minimal and I get even development. I use older, out-of-date films, also. Staining developers can add to the base fog of these films, so a non-staining developer can come in handy. I am using some Kodak Professional Copy Film. The 8x10 expired in 1989 and the 4x5 in 1999. Just developed some of the 4x5 in PyrocatHD yesterday -- minimal base fog. However, the 8x10 has a heavy base fog (still 100% usable) that calls for a non-staining developer if I want to keep printing times down.

This negative (4x10) was developed in straight Dektol and printed in Carbon. Might be a little too much contrast for Pt/pd, but I have not tried. Might be fun.

[Greg]

I shoot FP4+ ASA 100 Rodinal 1:25 68 degrees 15-17 minutes. minimal base plus fog and Dmax 2.30+
With HP5+ shot at 320 the base+fog density was too much for liking and the Dmax not high enough for my liking

[LFLarry]

Wow!!! Impressive image Vaughn.

I will definitely give PQ a try and compare it to PMK. I need to start with PMK and FP4 since that is what I have on hand and I can order some PQ to be able to compare. I might as well go all in and order some Pyrocat HD too. I also have some drums and a roller base that I could try in addition to my normal tray development.

Any idea for some starting development times for Pt/Pd prints using your suggested Ilford Universal PQ and Dektol? This type of info isn't something that would be readily available I assume. I like to try and start with some type of baseline to get me started, and then do my own tests to figure out what works for me. But using a starting point is much better than throwing darts in the dark.

This should be fun to work though.

Thanks again.

A British photographer who back-engineered many of the old processes (Terry King -- no relation to Sandy) recommended FP4+ and Ilford Universal PQ developer especially for Pt/pd printing. He liked the way it expanded/seperated the mid-tones. Depending on the scene's brightness range, I used it from normal film strength (1:19) to paper strength (1:9) for negatives for both Pt/pd and carbon printing. I have also has success using Dektol in the same manner (straight to 1:2).

Years ago I used some different staining developers. I am using PyrocatHD now. I develop in Expert Drums on a Unicolor motor base. Oxidation seems to be minimal and I get even development. I use older, out-of-date films, also. Staining developers can add to the base fog of these films, so a non-staining developer can come in handy. I am using some Kodak Professional Copy Film. The 8x10 expired in 1989 and the 4x5 in 1999. Just developed some of the 4x5 in PyrocatHD yesterday -- minimal base fog. However, the 8x10 has a heavy base fog (still 100% usable) that calls for a non-staining developer if I want to keep printing times down.

This negative (4x10) was developed in straight Dektol and printed in Carbon. Might be a little too much contrast for Pt/pd, but I have not tried. Might be fun.

[LFLarry]

Thank you Greg. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience. Very helpful.

I shoot FP4+ ASA 100 Rodinal 1:25 68 degrees 15-17 minutes. minimal base plus fog and Dmax 2.30+
With HP5+ shot at 320 the base+fog density was too much for liking and the Dmax not high enough for my liking

[Vaughn]

I was looking thru some negs on FP4 and developed in Universal PQ. They are all over the place, as the SBR could run from 4 stops to 10 stops.

This scene read from 4 to 9 on my Pentax Spot Meter. Probably should have given it another stop of exposure to cover resiprocity failure, but I do use it to increase contrast. Developed in PQ Universal, 60 ml concentrate to 940 ml water (~1:16) at 69F for 5.5 minutes.

I use a 2:1 ratio for my palladium/platinum mix. Developed in warm Potassium oxalate. Cot 320 Again, I am going for negatives that print with no contrast agent...so you might be able to go lighter on the development.

[Ironage]

Not really the subject of this thread, but how about Tri-X in PQ Universal? Anyone tried that and is the film base plus fog low?

[Vaughn]

Not really the subject of this thread, but how about Tri-X in PQ Universal? Anyone tried that and is the film base plus fog low?

Yes... very clean-looking snappy negatives.