Thanks, I’ve sent him an email. Hopefully he can advise on a solution.
Thanks, I’ve sent him an email. Hopefully he can advise on a solution.
Not sure of the problem, looks like you have everything to make it work.
Are you able to get the enlarging light to come on in any one configuration, without plugging the timer into the system?
Essentially I had a similar problem to yours, my breakthrough moment was when I accidently powered the enlarging lamp in the colour head. Once I knew I could get the lamp to light up, I left the enlarger settings as they were and controlled the enlarger via the power input lead; dead simple. It did take me some time to figure this simple step though.
I control the power into the stabilised power supply unit on the input side of the aftermarket stabiliser. The lead coming out of the stabilised power unit goes directly to the enlarger. Been working like that for the last 22-25 something years.
The breakthrough for me was to have the focus switched on, as well as the mains switched on. In your picture you have the Focus switched off.
This is my stabilised power supply, for what its worth.
Thank you all for your replies, and apologies for the delay in mine – I was out shooting then got sick. Sigh...
I have had some great correspondence with Keven from KHB. Man, what a wealth of knowledge!
Anyway, to paraphrase what he told me for those interested and those stumbling on this thread looking for info:
"DeVere never made a 220/240V version of the 120V timer Interface...
The instruction manual shows how one (with basic electrical skills) can connect a non-DeVere timer. From the photos and details you sent, I think the previous owner has done just that. If I am correct all you need to do is plug the voltage stabiliser into a wall outlet and do the same with the power cord from the Durst timer. Turning on the control box should turn on the fan and panel lamp circuitry of the lamphouse and the “Focus” switch on the control box will manually turn on the lamps (bypassing the timer) or if you turn on the Durst timer it too should activate the exposure lamps with either the focus or timer modes."
Keven went in to more detail about some other things, which was really helpful. I guess I just needed to confirm with someone with his knowledge that this is indeed a normal setup, as it's very different to that of my friend's.
Long story short(ish), I did as Keven suggested and all worked as it should except I must have the focus switch on at all times to use the timer. If it's off, the timer does not work. Seems someone must have wired it so that switch puts the timer in the loop rather than cut it out.
I've got a few more things to problem solve now, which I hope the manual will help with.
One issue is that the negative carrier release does not raise the lamphouse evenly front-to-back, so it's quite difficult to slide the carrier in – the front of the lamphouse sags and slightly obstructs things.
Secondly, my 8x10" glass carrier does not hold the negative in place as there's too much of a gap between the glass sheets. When I lift the carrier to insert it in the head, the negative is super easy to bump out of place.
Lastly, the focus wheel is in need of a bit of lubrication I think. The action is a bit bumpy, which makes fine focus quite difficult.
Other than that, it seem the head is in quite good calibration and things are still square after all these years. Bonus!
If anyone has any tips with regards to the above, feel free to chime in. Otherwise, thanks everyone for your advise and help!
Tim
Glad that you have the enlarger on worked out. Same as mine, which needs to have the focus switch, switched on permanently.
I'm not sure about your negative stage issue, but the system I've been using for at least the last 30 years, is to hold the negative in place using "Removable Magic Tape".
Even placing 4x5" negatives into a DeVere glassless holder, which holds them quite well, I use removable magic tape to secure them on both of the long sides to the carrier.
I also use removable magic tape for 35mm and 120 enlarging, glass or glassless carriers.
While I agree that the head and negative stages should still be in alignment, I would not think the baseboard will still be in perfect alignment after the moves you appear to have had.
My head and negative stages were pretty much in alignment and I used my enlarger for a few years and was extremely happy with it. All of that changed when I picked up a Salthill alignment tool. I was able to delicately adjust the baseboard so that it was dead flat under the enlarger. The difference was there, subtle difference, but a difference nonetheless.
Kevin Brown is a great fellow, he's helped me out more than once.
Yes, Kevin does indeed seem like a great guy. It's rare to find people such as him who want to share all their knowledge, even if it means less of a sale. It's very much appreciated!
I'm going to research this Salthill alignement tool you mentioned, Mick. Sounds like a good thing to have to keep things in check long-term and make it so I'm not second guessing myself every five seconds.
I think I've solved the issue with the 'sagging' lamphouse making it hard to insert the carrier. The two bolts at the rear of the unit just needed tightening. Simple.
As for the carrier itself, it seems a bit odd the that film is not relatively firmly sandwiched between the two glass sheets. The surfaces must be pretty close, but enough space to make the negative very difficult to keep in place – at least without the tape, as you mentioned. I wonder if this would also mean I'm more likely to get reflections / flare? Either way, I'll think more about it and await patiently the instruction manual from Kevin!
Thanks again guys!
Happy printing!
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