Densitometer Reading Question

[IanBarber]

It was probably already answered, but you want net density, i.e 1.32 minus 0.29, the latter of which is quite high, by the way. That gives 1.03. For me, that's too low. I prefer a net density of about 1.25-1.3 for my Zone VIII.

I did the test again, exposing a white card to Zone VIII and developing it for 7 1/2 minutes
I placed the FB+Fog frame under the densitometer and zero it out.
My Zone VIII patched Read 1.08

I haven't printed the patch yet mainly because I feel the reading is still too low.

The leader leader which has obviously been exposed to daylight measures 2.12

Would you increase the dev time to see if I can get more density in the Z VIII patch

[esearing]

Or there is the school of thought that the negatives tonal relationships can be "compressed" but paper needed to expand the tonal relationships will require a higher grade, or more Blue filtration if VC. Others aim to get all their contrast on the negative and plan for Grade 2 paper. And all of this needs to be determined based on the subject being photographed and it's contrast. I fall somewhere in the middle these days but still lean toward a flatter negative, and grades 2.5-3 on a warmtone glossy paper.

I suggest taking multiple shots of a natural scene you would typically shoot , well metered so you know the tonal range, develop a negative to see how close you are in matching those relationships, then printing. Adjust development and measure again.

[Alan9940]

I did the test again, exposing a white card to Zone VIII and developing it for 7 1/2 minutes
I placed the FB+Fog frame under the densitometer and zero it out.
My Zone VIII patched Read 1.08

I haven't printed the patch yet mainly because I feel the reading is still too low.

The leader leader which has obviously been exposed to daylight measures 2.12

Would you increase the dev time to see if I can get more density in the Z VIII patch

Based on the way I work, I'd suggest increasing development time by about 25%, depending on the film. If you're using TMax stock, that much increase may not be necessary. When I get a reading such as yours, I try to increase development time such that I either hit the range dead on or go slightly above; in other words, surround what will be your "correct" time, then extrapolate from there. For example, if 7.5 mins reads 1.08 and, say, 9.5 mins reads 1.5, then start with 8.5 mins and adjust from there. Stop testing at this point and go make images. If you need to tweak your EI or development time from there, your prints will tell the tale.

[Peter De Smidt]

Would you increase the dev time to see if I can get more density in the Z VIII patch

Yes. Do what Allan suggests above.

[IanBarber]

Thanks for all the replies, I am am now armed with lot's of valuable information

[Tin Can]

Here is X-Ray that needs more development

I like what happened, I was testing times

3 810 2-1 Macro by TIN CAN COLLEGE, on Flickr

[Doremus Scudder]

Or there is the school of thought that the negatives tonal relationships can be "compressed" but paper needed to expand the tonal relationships will require a higher grade, or more Blue filtration if VC. Others aim to get all their contrast on the negative and plan for Grade 2 paper. And all of this needs to be determined based on the subject being photographed and it's contrast. I fall somewhere in the middle these days but still lean toward a flatter negative, and grades 2.5-3 ...

Not to muddy the waters too much, but I use an approach similar to esearing's: I like to print with a setting on my color head (Chromega) of 30-40M or a skosh higher, which is about a #3 filter. I often make negatives with more contrast than would fit on the paper at that setting with a straight print, but then burn down highlights, etc. slightly with the 170Y setting (#00 filter if you like) till there's some tonality and then bring up detail in those areas with 170M (or #5 filter). In other words, I'm intentionally using too-contrasty paper and doing split-grade burning (and dodging at times) to make things fit. I find this gives the mid-tones more presence. I think a lot of prints made from negatives that "fit" the paper grade are just boring, tonality-wise...

Best,

Doremus