How do I get a warmer tone when developing BW film?

[pkr1979]

Hi all,

Ive been experimenting quite a bit with black and white reversal film developing, and Im getting pretty close to the look I want.

What Id like to adjust now is the tone, Id like a little bit warmer image. How may I achieve that?

Ive been developing TMY2 (at 200 ISO) for 12 minutes at 20 degrees using the Orwo 842 recipe (http://lostlabours.co.uk/photography...v_filmotec.htm) with metol instead of phenidone. Note that Ive used this recipe for both first and second developer (6 minutes for the second developer) as Im avoiding both thiocyanate and thiosulfate in the first developer (never had any luck with that).

Cheers
Peter

[Michael Wellman]

I've been wanting to start doing some reversal images and appreciate the recipe link. I am intrigued by the idea that you can get a warmer tone with a film? I had no idea. Definitely will be following this thread. thanks

[nolindan]

The second developer can be most anything. Very fine grain developers give 'warmer' results. So you could try Microdol-X (or whatever the Ilford equivalent is).

I imagine you can also use a sulfide developer for a sepia color.

[xkaes]

I imagine you can also use a sulfide developer for a sepia color.

Along this line, you could try a TON of various toners that are typically used for prints -- sepia, brown, copper, gold (which is actually brown), etc. -- POST processing. If used in a dilute form or for a short period of time, you can control the amount of toning.

[pkr1979]

Im considering toners. But, if Im not mistaken, increasing the amount of potassium bromide will warm paper, maybe this works for film too. Ive also considered longer exposures to shorten the developer time as this is also supposed to warm up the image. But Ive never tried so I dont know if it actually works. If I can avoid an extra step I'll do that, if not Ill use a toner.

[xkaes]

Much depends on what you mean by "warm" and how "warm" you want to get. Changing most developers won't change the color of the negative much. There are some "tanning" developers that work differently, and produce slightly brownish negatives, but if you want negatives that actually look brownish, I'd start with normal development, and then use a toner -- after processing, just like with a print. There are a ton to choose from -- and lots that you can mix from scratch.

Do you mix your own stuff or use off the shelf?

Have you toned prints before?

[Bernice Loui]

Warm tone silver gelatin prints?

Staining developers like Pyro based often alters the appearance of the developed film (color of the film density areas will be different), are not warm tone film developers. Pryo developers can aid in contrast (dynamic) range compression to allow making prints with remarkable contrast range not always possible with normal or standard developers.

As for warm tone prints, there are warm tone silver gelatin papers and warm tone paper developers like Ansco 130 that promote the visual appearance of a warmer tone print.

There are post process print toning processes that can also aid to achieving a warmer print appearance.

Key is to know what your print goals are and what is possible, then make a trade-off_compromise choice of what is ideal -vs- what is possible.


Bernice

[Jason Greenberg Motamedi]

I used Berg Blue Toner (apparently no longer made) with home processed reversal 16mm cine film in an attempt to emulate early cine hand painted and toned film. It worked well (I think we used Orwo UN54), so imagine that a similar warm tone toner would work.

[pkr1979]

I mean slightly warmer ;-) I mix my own stuff using a Orwo recipe where Ive replaced the phenidone with metol. I have also mixed up some Pyrocat M for developing negatives, but Im not so sure I'll use this a second developer as its 'too' warm for reversal. I assume though if I use a toner I can to this pretty subtle if diluted enough.

I have never toned prints, and toning these positives would be the first time toning anything.

[nmp]

Check this thread out:

https://www.photrio.com/forum/thread...-namak.189593/