Advice on lense (comparing 2 options)

[Oslolens]

to include 250/4.5 Fujinar, .

The Fujinars in shutters looks nice, the Copal and some of the shanel shutter are missing the flange. The Copal has 7 blade aperture while the Shanel has many making the aperture more round.

The Shanel and Copal #3 comes at a weight penalty, for some photographer, that's important.



Edit: 7 blade, not 5

[r.e.]

That's a good point -- Tessars, even though inexpensive, require larger shutters due to their "speed".

Yes, my 210mm f/4.5 Docter Optic weighs 565g. It's a modern lens made from 1991-96 and uncommon, which means that finding one that's cheap is a matter of luck. Arne Cröll's essay about these lenses (post #17) is very good.

Docter Optic is a going concern, it just doesn't make large format lenses anymore: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Docter_Optics

[AnetteB]

Thanks for all the advice, guys! Very nice of you to take the time to provide such detailed advice - much appreciated. I've just bought a Fujinon W 250/6.3. I'll start with this, as I have the idea (and several of you too) that this focal length best suits my type of portraiture and what I'm used to work with in FF digital. I may still in due course get a 210mm as first planned (but not the 1000 euro one!). A good day and week to all!

[AnetteB]

Oh, I have another Q actually - I'll post that here too instead of starting another thread. My 150mm is in a recessed board (came with the camera, Linhof MT, when I bought it). I find it a bit fiddly to attach the cable sometimes. Is a recessed board really needed for this lens?
?

[Oslolens]

Oh, I have another Q actually - I'll post that here too instead of starting another threat. My 150mm is in a recessed board (came with the camera, Linhof MT, when I bought it). I find it a bit fiddly to attach the cable sometimes. Is a recessed board really needed for this lens?
?

Not for the lens, only for packing. Get a cable extender type Gepe.

Sent fra min SM-G975F via Tapatalk

[MartyNL]

Oh, I have another Q actually - I'll post that here too instead of starting another thread. My 150mm is in a recessed board (came with the camera, Linhof MT, when I bought it). I find it a bit fiddly to attach the cable sometimes. Is a recessed board really needed for this lens?
?

Do you happen to know if the 150mm lens has a "cam" so you can use your MT as a rangefinder?

It may also be necessary if you wish to be able to close the camera with the lens fitted.

[xkaes]

One approach is to buy a used FLAT, generic board for your 150mm -- bout $15. Then sell your recessed board. You'll make some money, and if the recessed board has a brand name -- quite a bit of $$$.

[Bernice Loui]

Hello Anette,

No need for using a recessed lens board with a 150mm lens. These recessed lens boards are designed and intended for short focal length lenses to aid in reducing the need for camera and bellows compression needed to achieve focus with these short focal length wide angle lenses on cameras like the Technika.

Using a recessed lens board creates lens shutter access problems like connecting a cable release to accessing the shutter controls. There are Linhof and other brand add-on do-dads like shutter control extensions and cable release extender sockets and such to helper this problem with recessed lens boards.
Use recessed lens boards only when absolutely needed.

Suggest to get a standard flat lens board for the 150mm lens. This will solve the shutter control and cable release problem imposed by the recessed lens board.

The Technika lens board style has become popular with other brands from Linhof to Toyo. Technika style lens boards are essentially interchangeable. Non Linhof lens boards can be of much higher cost-vs-value than the OEM Linhof. Know some OEM Linhof lens boards are slightly oversized for Linhof camera causing a lens board to Linhof camera fitment problem. The solution is to file down the lens board to camera fitment area until the Linhof lens board fits properly and easily on to the Linhof camera. This was a problem encountered with OEM Linhof lens boards to Linhof Technikardan 23s.


Not had this lens board fitment problem with Toyo and other non Linhof lens boards.

IMO, current best value for non Linhof Technika style lens boards are from LuLand:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18505344666...QAAOSwr-hdmdfo

The off center hole is native to the Technika to aid in centering the optical center axis to the Technika's ground glass and film plane. The off center lens board is not an absolute requirement. Centered hole lens boards works very often good.

LuLand lens boards also comes in a set:
https://www.ebay.com/itm/18287839062...53.m1438.l2649




Bernice

My 150mm is in a recessed board (came with the camera, Linhof MT, when I bought it). I find it a bit fiddly to attach the cable sometimes. Is a recessed board really needed for this lens?

[Alan Gales]

I looked at your website that Bernice posted. I fully agree with Bernice that a 210 should fit what you do now.

I used to have a Tachihara with a 13" belows draw. I could do head and shoulder shots with a 250mm lens at full extension of the bellows.

I also at one time owned the 300 M Nikkor you mentioned. It is a sharp and contrasty lens and makes for a great landscape lens. It would be brutal however for a head shot of someone. Some people like that and some don't.

If you want to do studio portraits then pick up a cheap used monorail like the Sinar F series, Toyo, or Cambo/Calumet series. You will have all the bellows you need for head or head and shoulder shots.

[AnetteB]

Thanks again for advice!. A follow-up Q: I decided on, and got hold of, a Fujinon 250 mm 6.3. I am now wondering where to put the little infinity stops (on the Linhof MT thus) - at 250mm from the filmplane? Is that a 'short cut' or is it by simply testing?