Possible corrosion on rear standard of Graflex Speed Graphic. Cause and Remedy needed

[polaroid_memory]

Hi all,
Recently acquired a Speed Graphic from Roberts and when it arrived today I noticed some strange white, hard particles, marks and clusters on the Graflok back.

Images are here (https://imgur.com/a/JCiUEBm)

My main concern is that this white stuff is stopping me attaching my Polaroid back to the camera, as the white stuff is raised and not allowing the film back to sit flush, therefore affecting the ultimate film plane.

So how can I remove and clean such marks? Is it corrosion? If so, what caused it? And if it isn't, what was the cause? Is the rear standard of the Graflex made of aluminium?

Many thanks in advance.

[nolindan]

Take a toothbrush to it and see what's underneath. It looks like very light corrosion - the camera got used at the sea side and got put away wet? It's no show stopper. I've always assumed that used gear (especially budget used gear) is going to need cleaning, futzing, adjusting, and a lite whacking with a BFH.

[LabRat]

It's called "white rust" on zinc... Is removable, but will be pitted under surface (which can be filled and painted over nicely)... Common for traces on Graflex cameras...

Remove the 6 screws around the rear back to remove back to get a better look around... You will find some other traces of it elsewhere...

Steve K

[Bernice Loui]

Return this camera, that is serious corrosion that is slowly dissolving this camera. The loss of base metal will impact the dimensions of this camera where precision and accuracy is needed most. Once this kind of cancer-corrosion is happening (does not stop, this cancer progresses with the passage of time) , a complete strip down and assessment of how much material has been lost must be made to determine if the camera is savable.

Not a bargain, there will be plenty of other cameras like this is FAR better condition that should be considered for ownership.


Bernice

[eli]

Four 0000 steel wool, if you decide to keep it.

0000 is used on fine firearms to remove surface rust without destroying the blued finish and move ght be just the ticket with some small wood staves to push small bits into corners, etc.

Wear heavy 9mil "rubber" gloves and eye protection as small bits of wool will make the use of the stuff a real pain, in my experience.

[Kevin Crisp]

I wouldn't treat this situation like its Stage IV pancreatic cancer. I've got 4 of these, and all of them have a little of it. I agree on the steel wool. Then you will see pitting, if there is any of significance. I'd expect it to be shallow if it is there. It won't be hard to fill in if you must (check for light leaks first) then put a little black enamel on there and use it.

[maltfalc]

corroded magnesium. just scrub it off with a wet toothbrush. a bit of carnauba car wax will help prevent any future corrosion.

[Kevin Crisp]

If there is significant pitting, once you've got the surfaces cleaned off, apply a thin layer of Bondo "glazing and spot putty." You don't have to mix it, it comes out of a tube and it's cheap. Spread a thin layer into the pits and the smooth surfaces, though obviously it will be deeper in the pits. Let it dry, which actually doesn't take that long. Wet sand it with #600 sand paper and very quickly it will comes off the flats and you've have orange dots where it filled in the pits. If you sand down to the undamaged flat surfaces you won't have any issues with the back not indexing properly. Put on some black enamel and you're done.

Since the back comes off the camera easily, you can wet sand it in a sink and put it back on when done. I kind of doubt when you get it cleaned up you will have light leaks anyway, but that is easy to test. On my cameras, the corrosion has never worsened over the years on any of them, and I've done nothing about it.

[Paul Ron]

corroded magnesium. just scrub it off with a wet toothbrush. a bit of carnauba car wax will help prevent any future corrosion.

1+++

it has no effect on the image. new seals n you are good to go.