Fujinon 180mm. f/9 - Curious about some specs.

[xkaes]

I wonder if anyone who shot with this lens got similar experience when pushing the image to the edge of lens coverage?

Since my primary use of my A 180mm is for close-up work -- and that is the intention of the lens (1:5-1:1) -- I've never had a problem with "the edges".

[Drew Wiley]

Yes, they're close range optimized, but also equally good at infinity, and everywhere in between. But that does give them a distinct edge over general purpose plasmats, which aren't as good really up close. Gosh, I've got some near 1:1 8X10 color film shots using the 360 Fuji A that have incredible detail. I've done quite a few closeups with both the 240 and 180 A's too. These are 80 degree lenses at f/22 at infinity, so all with very generous image circles for their respective focal lengths.

[Michael R]

Drew you seem a little emotionally invested in protecting this lens’s reputation. “My kid’s the best, never mind his report card!”

Yes, they're close range optimized, but also equally good at infinity, and everywhere in between. But that does give them a distinct edge over general purpose plasmats, which aren't as good really up close. Gosh, I've got some near 1:1 8X10 color film shots using the 360 Fuji A that have incredible detail. I've done quite a few closeups with both the 240 and 180 A's too. These are 80 degree lenses at f/22 at infinity, so all with very generous image circles for their respective focal lengths.

[Drew Wiley]

No, Michael. Just stating some basic facts potentially useful to others. The same largely applies to late shutter-mounted G-Clarons. It's hard to do better on any report card. Yes, if you choose to specialize in photographing diamond rings or insects, there might be slightly better choices, but those might not be very versatile. These are. And as far as LF lenses go, I have quite a few "kids" to choose from. I don't favor just one. But there still seems to be some arcane mythology out there that somehow Japanese lenses aren't quite up to par with German brands. In some cases, they're even better.

[Michael R]

I was just kidding you. The only Fuji lens I’ve used is my 300C. Terrific lens.

No, Michael. Just stating some basic facts potentially useful to others. The same largely applies to late shutter-mounted G-Clarons. It's hard to do better on any report card. Yes, if you choose to specialize in photographing diamond rings or insects, there might be slightly better choices, but those might not be very versatile. These are. And as far as LF lenses go, I have quite a few "kids" to choose from. I don't favor just one. But there still seems to be some arcane mythology out there that somehow Japanese lenses aren't quite up to par with German brands. In some cases, they're even better.

[xkaes]

Since my primary use of my A 180mm is for close-up work -- and that is the intention of the lens (1:5-1:1) -- I've never had a problem with "the edges".

I should add that I've used my A 180mm for NON-closeup shots, and it's great as well. Because of the large image circle, even at infinity, I'm only using the center of the image circle. Someone using a larger film format, and/or doing crazy tilts or shifts might run into problems "on the edges", but not with 4x5" fim.

As to macro shots greater than 1:1, for which the A 180mm is also not optimized, I have no doubt it would be great. However, since my bellows is 360mm at max, I can only get to 1:1 -- although I have done some significant cropping of 1:1 negatives without any problems.

Normally, past 1:1, I rely on shorter focal length lenses from Minolta and Tomioka to do the job.

I recently discovered some interesting short focal length lenses from FUJI with great potential for macro & micro work"

http://www.subclub.org/fujinon/efc.htm

[Drew Wiley]

Michael - the 300 is the only Fuji A I don't have. But since I have a 360, I figure I don't need it. The 300 is the missing element to my Fuji C series as well; but since I have a Nikkor M 300, no point.
Yet in those M's, I'm missing the 450, but have a 450 Fuji C, and so it goes. No sense spending extra money at my age just for more like-to-have fill-ins. If a tempting trade opportunity comes up, well, that's a different story.

[Bernice Loui]

For images made larger than 1:1 or life size, reverse mounted enlarging lens works better than most would believe.
Schneider offered their M-componon in shutter back in the late 90's. These are essentially a reverse mounted Componon S in shutter.

Given the camera/bellows extension limit of 360mm/14" consider a focal length about 100mm/4" as 1:1 would be achieve at about 200mm/~8" camera/bellows extension. If more magnification is needed, use shorter focal lengths as needed, including microscope objectives.


Bernice

As to macro shots greater than 1:1, for which the A 180mm is also not optimized, I have no doubt it would be great. However, since my bellows is 360mm at max, I can only get to 1:1 -- although I have done some significant cropping of 1:1 negatives without any problems.

Normally, past 1:1, I rely on shorter focal length lenses from Minolta and Tomioka to do the job.

I recently discovered some interesting short focal length lenses from FUJI with great potential for macro & micro work"

http://www.subclub.org/fujinon/efc.htm

[Bob Salomon]

For images made larger than 1:1 or life size, reverse mounted enlarging lens works better than most would believe.
Schneider offered their M-componon in shutter back in the late 90's. These are essentially a reverse mounted Componon S in shutter.

Given the camera/bellows extension limit of 360mm/14" consider a focal length about 100mm/4" as 1:1 would be achieve at about 200mm/~8" camera/bellows extension. If more magnification is needed, use shorter focal lengths as needed, including microscope objectives.


Bernice

M Componons were available far longer then that.

[xkaes]

If more magnification is needed, use shorter focal lengths as needed, including microscope objectives.
Bernice

I've used the Minolta 25mm and 12.5mm Micro Bellows lenses on my 4x5 with great results. And they are microscope lenses -- with an RMS thread mount -- but unlike most microscope lenses, they have an adjustable aperture.