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Thread: Sunny !6 Users Unite!

  1. #21
    Vaughn's Avatar
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    Re: Sunny !6 Users Unite!

    Quote Originally Posted by Michael R View Post
    Well, it really isn’t that complicated...People over-complicate exposure/development because they don’t understand it.
    ...
    Agree. That is what I meant be needing 'to pay a little more attention'. Not a whole bunch more, and all part of the basic photographic process.

    And being the lazy sort, I prefer to put some a little extra effort on the front end and make the back end a lot easier.
    "Landscapes exist in the material world yet soar in the realms of the spirit..." Tsung Ping, 5th Century China

  2. #22
    Tin Can's Avatar
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    Re: Sunny !6 Users Unite!

    As most of you know, 35mm film boxes used to have Sunny 16 instructions on the inside of the box

    Nobody taught me a damn thing, I was sternly told read the BOX!

    It worked!
    Tin Can

  3. #23

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    Re: Sunny !6 Users Unite!

    John Cook was a gem. Miss him.

  4. #24

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    Re: Sunny !6 Users Unite!

    How about "Sunny" f32
    (1/30 sec with ISO100 film speed at f32) ?


    Bernice

  5. #25

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    Re: Sunny !6 Users Unite!

    Quote Originally Posted by j.e.simmons View Post
    John Cook was a gem. Miss him.
    Wonderful posts, but it helps to have a sense of humour and to realise that he just might have understood exposure

  6. #26
    Tin Can's Avatar
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    Re: Sunny !6 Users Unite!

    It is widely known as Sunny 16, we adjust with a few factors

    Film Speed

    Latitude, time of year, hemisphere, weather...

    Quote Originally Posted by Bernice Loui View Post
    How about "Sunny" f32
    (1/30 sec with ISO100 film speed at f32) ?


    Bernice
    Tin Can

  7. #27

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    Re: Sunny !6 Users Unite!

    I use both together to cross check each other... I have seen meter errors and also the scene can throw you curve balls...

    I have read scene after scene that gave me the same reading time after time, but the reading just confirmed everything was ok... I even figured out how much to compensate from cloudy bright/cloudy/dark cloudy, early evening, typical night scenes etc by subtracting a stop for each condition... Usually works very well with experience...

    But there are other factors I depend on my spotmeter for... For instance, was shooting in a forest fire burn area where the trees were all burned and very dark, so taking a contrast reading of the sky vs the dark shaded bark (that reflected a stop darker than normal shaded bark) so the reading saved me by giving me at least a hint of shadow detail there... And backlit etc scenes should be read as to see if scene will fit into film range...

    So no doubt a scene should be read, esp for color...

    Steve K

  8. #28

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    Re: Sunny !6 Users Unite!

    Quote Originally Posted by r.e. View Post
    Wonderful posts, but it helps to have a sense of humour and to realise that he just might have understood exposure
    Except it wasn’t funny though.

  9. #29

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    Re: Sunny !6 Users Unite!

    Many years ago in the late 1950's I heard about the sunny-16 rule and it's origin. Is this true? Years before Kodak had examined thousands of photographs (snapshots) taken be average people and had determined that the sunny-16 rule produced the best B/W images.

  10. #30
    (Shrek)
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    Re: Sunny !6 Users Unite!

    I used to walk around town with an odd assortment of bargain German or Japanese 35mm cameras from the 1930s-60s, most of them without a meter. Zone focus and estimate exposure based on experience, because when you see something in the street, you don't have time to pull out a spot meter and a notepad. I usually brought along a meter just to make myself feel better, and would occasionally pull it out and confirm that the sun was still in the sky. Mostly I needed the meter because I usually stayed out until it was too dark to shoot, so nearing dusk I had to drop the Sunny 16 thing.

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