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Thread: Discussion on Tripod Heads for 8x10

  1. #11

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    Re: Discussion on Tripod Heads for 8x10

    Quote Originally Posted by SergeyT View Post
    Drew makes a good point.
    Very often I fine-tune my camera position by adjusting tripod legs, instead of messing around with head controls.
    Next step is to get rid of the head
    I've used a levelling base for a long time, and also have a Ries tripod and head, but recently I started using my video camera's fluid head (see post #2). It's absolutely my first choice unless I don't want the weight of the head. I can control the vertical angle of the camera in relation to the ground, and its horizontal/panned orientation to the subject, with my index finger.

  2. #12
    Foamer
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    Re: Discussion on Tripod Heads for 8x10

    When I added an 8x10 Kodak 2D on which I typically use heavy 19th C. lenses nearly a year ago I immediately went on a search for a tripod & head to support it. I do like using a head because it makes leveling so much easier and faster. Downside is it adds weight. What I ended up with is a Ries J100 tripod and a Ries J250-2 head. It's nearly perfect. It is a bit longer and less compact than I would consider perfect, but the set is SOLID. The Ries head is totally rigid. The J100-2 has a 4 inch platform which is plenty for the 2D. They also make an A100 which has a 6 inch platform. I've been using this combo for six months now in the Dakota outdoors and love it.


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  3. #13
    Unwitting Thread Killer Ari's Avatar
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    Re: Discussion on Tripod Heads for 8x10

    I like having some kind of ball head, 3-way, 2-way, or even a half-ball, on top of my tripod.
    The desire to of make 8x10 shooting more difficult and annoying is in itself difficult and annoying to ponder.
    I'd rather spend my time staring at the ground glass, then waiting for the right light while nursing a Cognac and pulling on a Cohiba.

    dikaiosune01, if it helps, I've use a levelling half-ball on top of a sturdy tripod, and it has supported a heavy Toyo 8x10 very well.
    I attach a QR clamp to the top of the half ball then attach my camera, which has a long QR rail to fit the clamp.
    Center of gravity is as low as if you were mounting to the tripod directly, ŗ la Drew, but you get 15˚ of movement from the half-ball.
    Best of all, no fussing under the tripod, hoping that your levelling guesstimate was accurate.

  4. #14

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    Re: Discussion on Tripod Heads for 8x10

    Currently, while I practice with the 8x10, I’m using a bogen 3047. It is strong enough for a lighter weight 8x10 but not much more. I’m assembling a setup for a more permanent solution. If I had the cash I’d probably buy a Berlebach Report 3xx (342 probably), but I don’t, so a used lightweight Zone VI, plus a used Bogen 3115leveling base, plus a Bogen QR receiver. All in I’ll be ~$350. But I bring it up to mention the Bogen 3115 (there is a different number for the later Manfrotto version.). It is a leveling ball that is big enough and low enough that it seems very sturdy. I don’t have the whole setup yet, so I can’t test it’s weight, but compared to sub-$100 leveling bases, it’s the strongest I could find.

  5. #15
    Drew Wiley
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    Re: Discussion on Tripod Heads for 8x10

    Not all tripods will accept a half-ball mechanism. They have to be designed for that to begin with. I have a large Feisol CF tripod that will accept one, and it's fairly affordable if I ever chose to do so. But whenever possible, I prefer the bully mass of a Ries wooden tripod instead. It can make a big difference in wind or muck.
    But half-balls, with their low center of gravity and large contact surface area, are one of the most sensible innovations I've seen so far. I still prefer going "headless", but I'm quite used to that anyway, in more than one sense! Wasn't there an entire camera brand called the Headless Horseman?

    "Leveling" per se is not necessarily the objective.... maybe with a fixed ocean horizon or architectural vertical; but for sake of panning and stitching, that's seldom a view camera priority, especially with all the surplus real estate you get with 8x10 film to begin with.

    "Ball heads" per se should be consigned to billiard tables.

  6. #16
    jp's Avatar
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    Re: Discussion on Tripod Heads for 8x10

    Quote Originally Posted by abruzzi View Post
    Currently, while I practice with the 8x10, Iím using a bogen 3047. It is strong enough for a lighter weight 8x10 but not much more. Iím assembling a setup for a more permanent solution. If I had the cash Iíd probably buy a Berlebach Report 3xx (342 probably), but I donít, so a used lightweight Zone VI, plus a used Bogen 3115leveling base, plus a Bogen QR receiver. All in Iíll be ~$350. But I bring it up to mention the Bogen 3115 (there is a different number for the later Manfrotto version.). It is a leveling ball that is big enough and low enough that it seems very sturdy. I donít have the whole setup yet, so I canít test itís weight, but compared to sub-$100 leveling bases, itís the strongest I could find.
    The 3047 is inexpensive, but it's also much taller (higher COG over the tripod, so not as desirable) and not as solid as some of the other options. It's probably fine for a light 8x10 with wide angle lens. The big cameras with big lenses you really need a serious tripod head or none at all.

  7. #17
    umop apsidn
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    Re: Discussion on Tripod Heads for 8x10

    Dikaiosune, having used lightweight carbon fiber tripods for decades I just went the other direction this year. This isn't something you'd want to haul on a bus, yet I'm trying out a Berlebach wood tripod (it has a very cool built in tray) for my 8x10 and have a Ries J200 head on order for it. I have a leveling base on it now which I got looking for something sturdier than a normal pan and tilt tripod head. The leveling base sounded good in theory, I knew it would be a little limiting and thought I could just work with it. Yet I found out quickly it couldn't quite give me the range I needed. I do need the ability to tip the camera way down for ground views or higher up--like looking up into the canopy of a tree. I found myself missing and clearly needing that option for several photographs.

    If it helps you any I opted for the J200 without the side to side tilt adjustment. I wanted something still compact for the size, and saw the side to side tilt as something that with a oversized large format camera could still flex and move on me. Handling any side to side adjustments I'll do with the tripod legs as I'm looking to make this setup as stout as possible.

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  8. #18
    Peter De Smidt's Avatar
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    Re: Discussion on Tripod Heads for 8x10

    What camera? If a Sinar, then get a Sinar pan/tilt head. I've not found a better option.
    ďYou often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.Ē
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  9. #19

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    Re: Discussion on Tripod Heads for 8x10

    Quote Originally Posted by jp View Post
    The 3047 is inexpensive, but it's also much taller (higher COG over the tripod, so not as desirable) and not as solid as some of the other options. It's probably fine for a light 8x10 with wide angle lens. The big cameras with big lenses you really need a serious tripod head or none at all.
    That’s pretty much what I said…

  10. #20
    Vaughn's Avatar
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    Re: Discussion on Tripod Heads for 8x10

    I use a Ries A100 with the 250 head for both 8x10 and 11x14. A touch over-kill perhaps for the first, but not for the 11x14. I am not backpacking with these cameras, so the weight of the head is not significant to me. I hike with the legs extended and can easily de-weight the pod/head (rest it on its spikes) when stepping up or down.

    Whatever head you get, not too much sense having a platform significantly bigger than the camera's base.
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