How do I recognize lenses that will cover an 8X10 plate with no vignetting

[Dan Fromm]

OP, if you want to be obsessive, especially about older lenses, the first post in this https://www.largeformatphotography.i...mainly)-lenses discussion has a link to a list of links to information of interest to LF photographers, including lens catalogs. I update it fairly often. The lists you've been directed to are fine as far as they go but they're all out of date and incomplete.

[Oslolens]

Forget about 180mm unless for macro and tight portrait use, the widest you get is a Fujinon-W with inner ring-text which vignetting unless focused on 2-3m and still not sharp in the 25mm closest to corner.
A 210mm will be better, and a 240mm will give you movements.
Else there are wide angles, the bigger the better.

Sent fra min SM-G975F via Tapatalk

[paulbarden]

I am new to large format, but am fairly experienced with medium format. I am considering getting into an 8X10 large format system. Probably with an adapter for 4X5 use also. I have questions on how to chose suitable lenses.

I see there are a large selection of large format lenses available at very reasonable prices in eBay. However, it is not always easy to identify if a lens suited for 8X10 without vignetting or generally poor performance on the edge. For example I understand that a 360 mm focal length lens is pretty typical for a standard lens for the 8X10 format. Logic says I should be able to get something of roughly half that focal length for wide angle applications in the 8X10 format. There are 180 mm lenses labeled (by the seller) for 4X5 use. Some just say that they are for large format. Most do not publish the image circle diameter.

So there is little information for me to use when choosing.

So does anyone have any advice for picking and choosing lenses for the 8X10 format? Is there any published information that I can rely on before purchasing a 2nd hand lens?

Not listed on that chart is the 190mm Wide Field Ektar by Kodak. Its my default wide angle lens for 8x10. Its only drawback (IMO) is that this doesn't have a large enough image circle for anything more than the smallest movements. As Neil suggested, the 250mm Wide Field Ektar would have more versatility, but its also going to be a more expensive lens. (The Wide Field Ektars are all expensive, but very good)

[Drew Wiley]

Effective image circle involves not only the actual stopped-down aperture at the time of the shot, but the amount of rise and tilt or swing likely to be employed. So in effect, you ideally want a significantly larger image circle than just the nominal minimum required diagonal to cover 8x10 film corner to corner. When in doubt about real world applications, rather than just brochure specifications, simply ask about the specific lens in mind on this forum; somebody will probably already have practical experience with it.

But first, it might help to narrow your preferences down. Do you tend to gravitate toward wide-angle lenses, or conversely to longer narrower perspectives, or more the "normal" range in between, or perhaps an ideal starter trio of all the above? You'll get a lot of opinions, regardless. So soliciting just one focal length at a time might save a few hundred posts of conflicting suggestions!

[Tin Can]

Most of my fun with LF is experimenting

Let YOUR eyes judge

A 120mm lens can cover and make a good result

Many here only shoot outside

I mostly inside

[Luis-F-S]

Or you could Google the coverage

[John Kasaian]

Wide lenses for Architecture with an 8x10presents an interesting challenge.
Nearly every Architecture specialist who shoots 4x5 has a 90mm in the stable
You can bet money on that.
Similar WAs on an 8x10 often give considerable distortion. There is an example of a shot of a library interior
in Steve Simmons Using The View Camera taken with a 165mm Super Angulon.
IIRC there is a photo somewhere on this forum taken with a 120mm Nikon SWA
Do a search and check 'em out---if that's what you're after, then fine

Hedrich Blessing of Chicago did exemplar work with 8x10 exclusively and while I don't know for a fact I strongly suspect that 250mm/10" WF Ektar received a lot of use
from Hedrich Blessing photographers. Check with your local library for---
The Architectural Photography of Hedrich-Blessing, edited and with an introduction by Robert A. Sobieszek, Holt, Rinehart and Winston (1984)

For landscape lenses, I found The Making of 40 Images by Ansel Adams loaded with practical examples of photos taken with classical glass

[Bernice Loui]

~What are your image goals?

~Why 8x10 film format?

Lenses for 8x10 have always been less common with the most desirable (for various reasons) being pricy and these days not easy to obtain due to the current fashionable endeavor of 8x10 and larger view camera images.

Historically, lenses that work good on 8x10 or larger have been made for over a century. They all have their place as image making tools. Question remains, what are the image goals?

In the case of wet plate and similar vintage Foto emulsions that are UV light sensitive, choosing lenses that have good UV transmittance will make a significant difference in exposure times for these Foto emulsions and would be highly preferred.. even if there could be slight shifts in lens focus at UV light wave lenghts.

Foto emulsions coated to plastic film used to record B&W or color images are often not happy being exposed to UV light. This is why modern view camera lenses have been specifically designed to greatly reduce the transmission of UV light wave lengths by coatings and optical glass choices during the lens design process.
UV stopping coatings were also used on higher power electronic strobe flash tubes to further limit UV light from acting on these Foto emulsions.

Then there is the question of lens focal length.. Typical "normal" lens focal length would be about 300mm to 360mm or 12" to 14". Longer than normal focal length begins at about 420mm and more. Shorter than normal lens focal length would be 240mm and less. These shorter than normal lens focal lengths will have light fall off depending on the shortness of lens focal length to cover the 8x10 film format. Shorter and larger angle of view greatly increases the light fall off problem and greatly increased the difficult and cost to produce a GOOD lens to meet these requirements.

Lens circle of illumination is not the same as specified performance lens image circle. Sure, there are plenty of lenses that will illuminate the image circle needed for 8x10, but the optical performance will not be as good as the designed for proper lens performance lens image circle..

It is a false economy to believe low cost 8x10 lenses are easy to obtain today due to what has happened to the view camera market. Cost of lens, camera and all related must be considered with the cost per sheet of 8x10 film or Foto emulsion needed to record the image. Beyond this, lies the entire world of print making... another cost that cannot be denied in the image making process.



Bernice

I am new to large format, but am fairly experienced with medium format. I am considering getting into an 8X10 large format system. Probably with an adapter for 4X5 use also. I have questions on how to chose suitable lenses.

I see there are a large selection of large format lenses available at very reasonable prices in eBay. However, it is not always easy to identify if a lens suited for 8X10 without vignetting or generally poor performance on the edge. For example I understand that a 360 mm focal length lens is pretty typical for a standard lens for the 8X10 format. Logic says I should be able to get something of roughly half that focal length for wide angle applications in the 8X10 format. There are 180 mm lenses labeled (by the seller) for 4X5 use. Some just say that they are for large format. Most do not publish the image circle diameter.

So there is little information for me to use when choosing.

So does anyone have any advice for picking and choosing lenses for the 8X10 format? Is there any published information that I can rely on before purchasing a 2nd hand lens?

[Tin Can]

In other words

are you going to capture mountains, trees, people, or tiny things

the only way forward is take the first step

and go IRL

Bernace is an expert

[Greg]

Not listed on that chart is the 190mm Wide Field Ektar by Kodak

Real sleeper is a 200mm f/6.5 TAYLOR-HOBSON Cooke Series VIIB WIDE ANGLE ANASTIGMAT. "100 degrees at f/32. Classic WA gauss 4 element air spaced Cooke lens" per their vintage brochure. Covers 11x14 with actually a little amount of movement possible. Using it on 8x10, I have yet to run out of coverage when raising the lens. Way, way smaller than a 210mm Super-Angulon or a 200mm Grandagon, and to be had for a fraction of the costs of either of these two lenses. S K Grimes mounted mine recessed into a Copal #3.