Lightweight Tripod for Sinar Norma Inspired by Julius Shulman

[Daniel Unkefer]

8x10 Sinar Norma Julius Shulman Titlall Setup 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Here is the 8x10 Sinar Norma Julius Shulman inspired Leitz Tiltall Tripod. Believe it or not solid as a rock and WOW portable. Love it and I think I will buy another old old Leitz Tiltall to dedicate for this camera and quick location jobs. I do have other half of the block of aluminum which I can utilize. The Norma Tripod Clamp is locked onto the tripod and simply unscrew to mount and remount different Norma cameras. I will prolly add a little loctite maybe

8x10 film is costly so I utilize the original Sinar Norma Sinarsix which is quite accurate for ambient TTL and has not let me down so far. I even have the Sinar dial which utilizes my own test data for really long exposures.

[Daniel Unkefer]

The weak point on all models is the connection between the head and column... The head slides onto the column tube, but is only secured by a bolt hole through the tube, travels a gap, and threads inside... After heavy use & time, the tube hole enlarges and allows the head to slightly rock a little bit... I had a machinist make an aluminum plug that goes into the tube, drilled/tapped around the head 4 holes on the base of head, and threaded into the plug... This really secured the head to the tube on my tripods... A significant upgrade that was needed!!! Steve K

Hi Steve,

Just bought a second original Tiltall and I'd be interested in seeing a photo of that machined column plug adaption. Any chance of that?

Thanks! -Dan

[LabRat]

Can't now and you wouldn't see much, but the upgrade is merely to make an aluminium plug that fits snugly into top of column tube and is drilled & tapped on 4 points around it's OD... Then the head is also matching drilled, and bolts thread into the plug from outer bottom ring of head......

Super fast/easy for a machinist to do...

Steve K

[pendennis]

I found a Leitz Tiltall a month, or so, ago at the local used dealer. I'd not seen the finish before; it's a very matte finish silver, and didn't have any scratches or wear marks. It didn't have any type of padding on the platform, so I found some thin rubber, glued it and trimmed with an Xacto knife. The only modification I've made to it was to add an Arca-Swiss adapter plate, so I can use the appropriate mounting plates. It really didn't add weight to it, and I've used it for a session with my Linhof Technica III. It's rock steady.

The best news is that is cost me $35 OTD. I've looked at any number of photos of Tiltall's, and I've yet to see this particular finish.

[pendennis]

Original Tiltall's are by far the best metal tripods I ever owned. Every time I see one at a show I test it, and usually buy it. My wooden tripods are all Otto's, the smallest and lightest of which is ample for my 8x10 Wisner, and 7x17 and 5x12 Koronas. I often wonder why I even buy the larger ones.

I own some modern Gitzo's and Manfrotto's/Bogen's. I do get a lot of use out of my Leitz Tiltall, a Vivitar 1321, and a Slik "pre-67", though. I modified the Slik to use interchangeable heads. The older tripods aren't as flexible, but they are very sturdy.

[Daniel Unkefer]

Starting Tiltall No 2 .5x3x4inch aluminum block by Nokton48, on Flickr

I like the custom Tiltall enough to start a second one. The .5"x4"x6" aluminum plate I bought on Ebay. Cut it in half with my Little Machine Shop Band Saw (see right) , will cut steel block if I need it to. Then it moves over to the drill press, cut the mounting holes, and a large center hole for 3/8" bolt and washer. I countersink the mounting holes and assemble with stainless metal screws from Lowes, I take the pieces in for custom fit.

Should be easier the second time around

[Daniel Unkefer]

Original Tiltall #2 arrives today from Tennessee
Time to get busy. Shouldn't take long to make another of these mods

I'm going to clean up both of these with electronic contact cleaner and elbow grease. Relube with black moly auto grease

[Daniel Unkefer]

Can't now and you wouldn't see much, but the upgrade is merely to make an aluminium plug that fits snugly into top of column tube and is drilled & tapped on 4 points around it's OD... Then the head is also matching drilled, and bolts thread into the plug from outer bottom ring of head......

Super fast/easy for a machinist to do...

Steve K

Thanks for that Steve!

[LabRat]

Cool!!!
Consider removing/replacing the three bolts that are on the leg to yoke tensioner position... I have had the heads break off a couple of times and the remaining bolt threads had to be removed by drilling and a screw extractor... Use good bolts (grade 8) to replace, and reset tension so not too tight, but enough tension for extended leg not to flop around if moving tripod...

A good lube for leg sections is silicone spray... Wipe some on and rub off excess, and you can't feel it if you handle it, but it's there making legs slide smoother...

Roll up a computer mouse pad and leave it stored in lower center column area... Use it if tripod has been very cold or hot in a trunk and leg locks sometimes get stuck, so it gives you a better grip on those stuck leg locks...

One of my tripods has black shrink tubing over top leg sections to;

-black out leg reflections (great when shooting store windows at night) and reduces reflections in shot...

-Insulates metal when handling in cold weather (get it from an electronics supply/surplus) or you can use pipe insulation material...

-Can dampen vibrations and "clanging" a little...

If you can unscrew the upper legs from the top, you can clean the entire leg assembly from inside out... Put a few drops of acetone in the seam where they screw in, wrap a piece of rubber near leg tops, clamp a hose clamp on rubber, and put a wrench on the hose clamp to loosen leg... This should break it free to turn threads... Once off, the leg sections can come apart... On the top of leg sections inside, there is a piece of felt that stabilizes leg top while moving in tube that needs to be replaced (new felt held in with contact cement works)... Scrub leg lock threads with solvent + old toothbrush to clean threads (messy)... Apply NoOx (?) from electrical supply house on thread before lubing to prevent corrosion from binding locks (sometimes locks are worn out)...

There's other stuff I have done for the over 40 years I have used these tripods, but at a loss to remember now... I use 3 of these on a nearly daily basis, and solid and work well... I have seen a new model at a camera store, and seems like a piece of crap...:-(

Steve K

[Daniel Unkefer]

Very helpful information, thanks again Steve

Hacked Tiltall Tripod No 2 by Nokton48, on Flickr

Here's Tiltall #2 which arrived yesterday from Tennessee. It took about twenty minutes to cut the holes and remount the other half of my aluminum block. To finish it I will enlarge the center hole for a 3/8" steel bolt, then the cleaning up of both tripods will be the final project. These hold up very well for their age and both of these fully functional (no broken or missing parts). Both of these are identical to the tripods in Shulman's book so the design has been time tested