Originally Posted by
Drew Wiley
Those "hot" high powered enlargers were printing Cibas in about 15 or 30 seconds, even with relatively dense contrast masks attached. Not hours. A transparency left in those conditions even two minutes might be faded to worthlessness. My own color mural enlarger had to be cooled with four separate pure silicone hoses. Just the cooling fan used more energy than a typical big industrial table saw. That's why I got rid of the thing and built my own custom 8X10 colorhead to be far more efficient, energy and cooling wise. The downside is that that my own colorhead is rather massive and heavy, and requires a pulley system just to lift off. Now that the Ciba era is over, the name of the game is how to prolong exposures so they won't be too fast using RA4 chromogenic paper instead. But I worked all that out over a decade ago.
Very long exposures were counterproductive. Not only did reciprocity failure start kicking in with Ciba anything more than a minute, or severely after 2 min, but prolonged excessive heating of dichroic filters alters their spectral transmission. I do know someone who built his own colorhead using a rheostatic system much like that well-known AA antique, using a bank of many individual tungsten bulbs, but in this case, composed of a mix of RGB filtered multiple ones. Rheostats of course cut power, and he ended up with exposures of 8 or 9 minutes. Another flaw is that he used ordinary pegboard for his vacuum easel, so if one looked carefully, regular little 1/8 dots of slightly greater density sometimes became visible in his prints.
My own rig is full feedback circuitry pulsed RGB halogen, 8X10 capable, with short printing times. But it is somewhat schizophrenic if any EMI incident occurs. There is no way to fully avoid that unless computerized sine-wave lighting controls are employed, like are now used for very complex stage lighting or rock concert productions. But that option wasn't available yet, and I wouldn't want to have been dependent on rapidly obsolete software or hardware anyway. As a backup option, I have an ordinary Durst L184 fitted with their own 10x10 CMY subtractive head.
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