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Thread: Retaining ring for Wollensak 8x10 Rapid Symmetrical lens

  1. #11

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    Re: Retaining ring for Wollensak 8x10 Rapid Symmetrical lens

    Getting a ring or flange made in Portugal might still be good for a French in Canada but I have seen some on Ebay with a diameter of 61, 62 or 63 mm and I don't know for sure what I need.
    I imagine a Wollensak would have a thread diameter in inches so that makes matter even more complicated for an European metric person like me.

  2. #12

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    Re: Retaining ring for Wollensak 8x10 Rapid Symmetrical lens

    All needed information should be in here.
    http://cameraeccentric.com/html/info/wollensak_12.html

  3. #13

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    Re: Retaining ring for Wollensak 8x10 Rapid Symmetrical lens

    OK, I think I have the dimensions right now.

    The outside diameter where the thread is is 63mm so that's 2.5 inches. With this dimension, I don't think I will have troubles to find a flange, ring or washer the right size. Thank you all for your help.

  4. #14

    Re: Retaining ring for Wollensak 8x10 Rapid Symmetrical lens

    Hot glue around the threads on the back works great. Holds well even for heavier lenses and is fairly easy to remove.

  5. #15

    Re: Retaining ring for Wollensak 8x10 Rapid Symmetrical lens

    a caliper (pied coulisse) and a thread gauge (jauge de filetage) are the good tools to have...a few euros/dollars each for enough accuracy
    the gauge gives you both metric and imperial (and BTW in Potugal, a machinist as every good machinist speaks metric and imperial !)

  6. #16

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    Re: Retaining ring for Wollensak 8x10 Rapid Symmetrical lens

    Thanks for your help. I bought a lens board with a 63mm flange on Ebay. Hopefully it will be the right size.

  7. #17

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    Re: Retaining ring for Wollensak 8x10 Rapid Symmetrical lens

    I received the flange and 63mm is too small. I was still able to screw the flange half a turn on the lens so it will be good enough for now but if someone else is looking for one, 64mm should be better.

    I posted a photo of the lens on a camera here:
    https://www.largeformatphotography.i...=1#post1608785

  8. #18
    Ron (Netherlands)'s Avatar
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    Re: Retaining ring for Wollensak 8x10 Rapid Symmetrical lens

    Quote Originally Posted by T.Chabry View Post
    I received the flange and 63mm is too small. I was still able to screw the flange half a turn on the lens so it will be good enough for now but if someone else is looking for one, 64mm should be better.

    I posted a photo of the lens on a camera here:
    https://www.largeformatphotography.i...=1#post1608785
    Better measure the mount more precise; which thread pitch? Perhaps your ring has the right diameter but the wrong thread pitch
    Your photo of lens/shutter combo is not clear: it looks like an Automat shutter by Bausch & Lomb (http://www.piercevaubel.com/cam/acc/shb&lautomat627.htm) or the Automatic by Wollensak (http://www.piercevaubel.com/cam/acc/...kautomatic.htm) or the Regular (http://www.piercevaubel.com/cam/acc/...sakregular.htm).
    If you know the type of shutter you can find more easily a matching mounting ring.
    Last edited by Ron (Netherlands); 1-Aug-2021 at 03:41.
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  9. #19

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    Re: Retaining ring for Wollensak 8x10 Rapid Symmetrical lens

    Thanks. It looks like the second one but I don't think it's any of them.

    Here is a better photo and a link with a shutter with the same patent dates.



    https://www.photo.net/discuss/thread...k-lens.425865/

    Click image for larger version. 

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    On the side of the lens barrel, it says: "Wollensak 8 x 10 Rapid Symmetrical".

  10. #20

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    Re: Retaining ring for Wollensak 8x10 Rapid Symmetrical lens

    https://www.cameraeccentric.com/stat...llensak_12.pdf
    The Automatic shutter is on page 9
    if you can come to Hamilton Ont. with the lens I can help you.
    Your best bet may be Jose in Portugal
    https://customphototools.com/contact/
    Now you know why a lens sans flange is cheaper than with flange, eh!
    The pitch of the lens is very important and may well not be standard, so it is best for the machinist to have the lens in hand or at least the back portion with the threads in question.

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