Rodenstock Imagon

[Mark Sawyer]

Regarding focusing the Imagon, or any other lens with pronounced soft focus, the "soft" part of the image is still a sharp image, just at a different focusing distance. It's the photographer's choice to pick where in the range of focus distances the image works best, and another photographer may make a different choice. It takes some experience to achieve what you want, which is why Wollensak called its soft focus Verito "the lens that improves with acquaintance".

As changing the aperture changes depth-of-field, it also changes the soft effect so that what was the soft image becomes sharper and the dominant plane of sharp focus often shifts, focusing should always be done at the taking aperture. Soft focus is really just a very pronounced form of focus-shift, both being caused by the same phenomenon: spherical aberration.

Pretty much restating what Bernice said...

[Tin Can]

Sort of like riding a bike

First you are in the ditch, then the other ditch

after awhile you meet a beautiful person and ride straight

I wish I could have taken pics of my best model.................... forever

[Daniel Unkefer]

001 by Nokton48, on Flickr

My other Plaubel Makiflex Automatic, with 120mm Rodenstock Imagon (soft focus) lens. I used a Durst Enlarger Recessed Cone to recess the lens to a regular lensboard, so now, it easily focuses to infinity. Great lens and very fun equipment to use.

[xkaes]

If the Imagon bugs are not wanted, use the strainer disc with the holes closed or make a round aperture disc as needed to control the degree of softness, Not exposure aperture. Controlling exposure "f-stop#" should be done using ND filters or dialing the lighting up or down or by shutter speed or film ISO..


Bernice

With a LOT of lenses -- not just SF lenses -- users tend to forget about using ND filters in order to keep the f-stop static. Sure, there are plenty of situations where you can keep the desired f-stop by adjusting the shutter speed, but other times that won't work. ND filters can come to the rescue.

[Daniel Unkefer]

With the 150 f2.8 Xenotar, with it's jagged beautiful bokeh, I only use that lens wide open. In bright light I have two 4XND filters I stack together, which gets me to where I want and need to be with that unique lens. It's worth the trouble. Same is also done with my nearly complete Imagon collection. ND's can be accumulated cheaply and stacked. With the Sinar Norma Shutter I use 4x4" ND gels, it has a built-in gel filter holder, also fits round 103mm Norma Glass Disks

Somebody here should make 3D Imagon Discs in all the sizes. Many here are missing the vital ones, the really really big ones are nearly impossible to find and uber expensive generally. I'd buy quite a few, if the product is good. Well worth it

[xkaes]

Somebody here should make 3D Imagon Discs in all the sizes. Many here are missing the vital ones, the really really big ones are nearly impossible to find and uber expensive generally. I'd buy quite a few, if the product is good. Well worth it

That has got to be a really easy task / simple project for someone into 3D printing -- or wanting to learn. And these discs are not just used with Imagon lenses.

PLUS, they could be made in different designs from the originals.

But count me out. I have enough problems getting my simple ink-jet printers to work!

[Peter De Smidt]

I cnc'd mine at my local library. It's not hard.