Gonna be more than +/- " half a stop"...
Read this book:
http://www.processreversal.org/publi...developing.pdf
Another VERY common reference from back in the day,
~Photo Lab Index Lifetime Edition.~
https://www.abebooks.com/servlet/Boo...4aAsg2EALw_wcB
Bernice
Originally Posted by Michael R
I’m familiar with them.
My statement stands.
Don't argue to the sake of arguing..
From AA's book, The Negative.
From Gordon Hutchings, The Book of Pyro.
Why is importance of film testing with a given developer SO important for the print making process? These are only a few written words of reference, LOTs more has been written on this topic by MANY individuals.
B&W film and it's print making process is NOT the same as color film, why?
Bernice
One developer I made from scratch really did give me a one stop true increase in film speed, but rare among developers...
The old photographer's rule still applies; "expose for the shadows, develop for the highlights"... You expose enough for detail in the shadows to appear, but highlights are islands that produce much physical/chemical activity that will block up if allowed to overdevelop... (Shadows develop early in development and remain mostly unchanged throughout development until fog starts to build-up...) So you need enough exposure for the shadows to start, but not develop too much for film to go into D-max where there will no separation in upper highlights... That is your mission...
Read up on all theory you can, but after several chapters of theory, it's time to get your hands wet with testing... Decide on one film/one developer, and follow the instructions to calibrate that combination and stick with it... Pretend it is the last film and developer available on this world and use all the time... You can later try other combinations on the side out of curiosity, but standardize one combination first...
You will be getting better results you didn't expect from the get-go...
Steve K
For B&W films and print making,
This, "Decide on one film/one developer, and follow the instructions to calibrate that combination and stick with it... Pretend it is the last film and developer available on this world and use all the time... "
Cannot be repeated or ingrained enough as the basics to GOOD B&W print making. Without a single know and well-proven point of reference, the print making process becomes difficult to control and produce expected or desirable print results.
Part two of this becomes print making which is interactive with the negative, they work together as a system and needs to be set up to be predictable as reasonable.
Bernice
Hey, good negs are easy to print!!! ;-)
Focus on neg making as a primary photo objective...
Steve K
Ansel Adams was a great photographer, but if you want to talk seriously about things such as emulsion speed, sensitometry or photochemistry, you don’t go to Adams, Hutchings, etc. In any case, Adams did not say developers make big differences in emulsion speed.
Yes, a lot has been written by many people, and a lot of it is wrong. There are good sources, and a whole lot of bad sources.
Why is film testing with a given developer so important for the print making process? It really isn’t that important. The control is in the printing. Of course you test to find a suitable development time, and you have to learn to use an exposure meter, but all the stuff about testing for film speeds is basically irrelevant and/or incorrect, as long as one is using a properly formulated general purpose developer with a properly designed/manufactured general purpose film.
Don't argue to the sake of arguing..
From AA's book, The Negative.
From Gordon Hutchings, The Book of Pyro.
Why is importance of film testing with a given developer SO important for the print making process? These are only a few written words of reference, LOTs more has been written on this topic by MANY individuals.
B&W film and it's print making process is NOT the same as color film, why?
Bernice
Sulphite acting as solvent, as in Perceptol and Microdol-X leads to finer grain but also to a loss of density?
exactly on point!
seems the argument is over a measely half stop... does it make that much difference? no!
best advice is standardise what ever you are using to give you the most consistant results in the print... that takes alot of experimenting starting from exposure to enlarger.
now lets hear more about those chemicals in the soup that acts on the image?
This is what I was looking for. Hence diluted XTOL create larger grains but better emulsion speed as well compare to non diluted XTOL. Thank you.
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