Best dual axis bubble spirit?

[LabRat]

IMO, the uber-precise machine set-up levels are way overkill for general photo applications, as they are so sensitive that with a camera on a tilt head, a bare tweak to the tilt will send bubble hard to the other side, so not really practical in the field... It is useful to calibrate other levels and I use to level benches, enlarger tables, machinery, set-ups etc... But VERY hard to use casually... I use them as reference standard...

For camera alignment during overhauls, I have found machinist's adjustable tri-squares to be invaluable to align standards, re-zero settings and locks, is the bed or rail really straight etc... You can usually find a flat to rest the base on while the rule goes up to check if a standard is tilted a little while set at zero etc... Rules for my Mitutoyo are up to 24", and make fine straight edges too... Great for fixing enlargers, easels, camera backs etc... And very useful in the print mounting/matting department... And for wood/metalworking is very valuable!!!

As a former architectural photographer, just used to use a decent torpedo level... Worked fine and better than camera levels...

Got rid of gridded GG's... Too distracting, as I now allow image to "float" on GG and establish new relationships with the borders and negative space...

Note that front to back leveling only works on one level plane, forcing front rise/fall, possibly creating an unnatural look sometimes... To create relationships with other verticals, I often tilt camera up and down quickly until verticals harmonize, then use front rise to frame edges... And have found different horizontal levels when shooting upwards of buildings etc to create dynamics (that look natural)... And sometimes use tilt movements to add a little distortion, but that's just me... ;-)

Grids and levels can be just relative...

Steve K

[Drew Wiley]

No view camera ever made has standards that are exactly calibrated and squared and level anyway, in the sense a machinist would think about his surface blocks or other references. We're not into photogrammetry or aerial mapping and so forth. Leave that kind of gear for government budgets. The adjustable calibrations on my humble Norma are plenty adequate for my own needs; and that camera gets a lot of compliments from bystanders too.

[Michael R]

A way to quickly square the standards without clunky detents etc. would definitely be useful for me. I don’t want any tilt or swing when I don’t want it. All it would need are four little laser depth gauges.

I’d have thought you of all people would have rigged something like this up long ago.

No view camera ever made has standards that are exactly calibrated and squared and level anyway, in the sense a machinist would think about his surface blocks or other references. We're not into photogrammetry or aerial mapping and so forth. Leave that kind of gear for government budgets. The adjustable calibrations on my humble Norma are plenty adequate for my own needs; and that camera gets a lot of compliments from bystanders too.

[Christopher Barrett]

I've long been curious about this little tool...

http://walkercameras.com/a_aligner.html

[Gord Robinson]

I downloaded a couple of bubble level apps for my phone and they seem to be accurate

[Michael R]

I had a Titan SF and the lens aligner. It’s a clever accessory but I found it somewhat fiddly and not very convenient. Just my opinion though - which should probably be taken with a grain of salt as I’ve always had an unhealthy concern/obsession with this particular aspect of variable geometry cameras in general.

I've long been curious about this little tool...

http://walkercameras.com/a_aligner.html

[Doremus Scudder]

Late to the party here...

I have installed/attached small bull's-eye bubble levels to all of my cameras. I set up the camera for a shot of a scene with vertical lines that are guaranteed plumb, e.g., a modern building, etc. and then align the verticals carefully with the grid on the ground glass (after making sure the camera back fits well, etc.).

I then lock everything down and install/attach the bull's-eye level so that it is centered. This sometimes involves shimming a bit on one or two sides. You don't need an expensive bubble level as long as you know that the centered position is correct; I don't need to know how far off I am from level, only when things are in the right position.

After that, I use the bubble level to set up the camera, fairly confident that it will get me close. For fine adjustments for architectural work, however, the grid on the ground glass is what I adjust to.

Best,

Doremus

[Lachlan 717]

Only Linhof could ask $90.00 for a $9.00 made-in-China level and get people to buy it. Gotta love them.

Nah; Leica could as well…

[Drew Wiley]

Are you claiming someone's pricing isn't on the level?

[Ulophot]

Drew, you rascal!