How about a reflex viewer for the back. Seems like the number of steps to make a photograph would be the same.
Compare:
YOUR SLR:
1) focus compose
2) close shutter
3) set aperture
4) remove darkslide
5) lift mirror
6) expose
CONVENTIONAL REFLEX VIEWER:
1) focus compose
2) close shutter
3) set aperture
4) insert film holder
5) remove darkslide
6) expose
Hey Peter, thanks for the work flow technique.
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Thanks Tin Can - yep will probably make one from drum kit symbol stand.
I used one when I had my portrait taken by Quinn Jacobson
The thing is I want to try more unorthodox poses than typical tintype portraits where I think you can't hide the posing portrait stand.
Thus, I think being able to focus on the fly would be really helpful.
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Beautiful setup Daniel - Thanks for sharing
This would be quite expensive maybe if it was down in 8x10.
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Thanks for the tip Greg, I think I saw that also on their website. I think I will still get a 8x10 monorail camera so I can do portraits (including headshots) conventionally but
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Hello ic-racer!
Thank you for your help!
As I'm shooting emulsions/plates that have an effective ISO of 1-3 and that I will be using only strobes in the studio
we could omit closing shutter and setting aperture. And if one could build an SLR 8x10 we could then move removing the darkslide to before step 1.
I've never used a Reflex viewer on a large format camera. Can you really critically focus?
Thanks
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Have a great new week everyone!
Depends on the viewer. I have Cambo monocular and binocular reflex viewers. The monocular has 1x magnification, the binocular 2x. 2x isn't enough for really critical focusing.Originally Posted by Qeb
To learn more about reflex viewers, see the list's reflex finders section. If you don't know what the list is, ask.
Hey Dan!
Thanks again for another reply.
Yes, I do not know what the "list's reflex finder section is." But I would love to know!
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I have only made wetplates with sunlight. The only strobes I own won't be strong enough (camera mounted units). I'll let others that have tried this chime in here if this will work.effective ISO of 1-3 and that I will be using only strobes in the studio
I don't have any problem focusing with a Sinar 2x bino-reflex viewer. It's easy to watch elements go in and out of focus.
“You often feel tired, not because you've done too much, but because you've done too little of what sparks a light in you.”
― Alexander Den Heijer, Nothing You Don't Already Know
Sheesh! You can't even ask the right question. The first post in this https://www.largeformatphotography.i...mainly)-lenses discussion has a link to the list.
hello ic-racer - I've done lots of research of the last few years. Some use 4800 ws Speedotron heads and some use the 105 quad tube 9600 ws heads.
I wouldn't feel comfortable going any higher than that as it could hurt people's eyes lol
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Thanks Peter - maybe I'll keep an eye out for a binocular reflex viewer
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Hey Dan, sorry if I offended you. I had no idea what you were referring to. But now I've skimmed over the list and I have to say good on you for supporting the global large format community!
I saw the reflex section. Thanks!
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Maybe I missed it reading through this thread but, how about a SLR setup using a simi-silvered non moving mirror? Kind of like a giant version of a Canon Pellix. Dimmer viewing but more practical to get precise alignment when the mirror is fixed. Don’t know where a source of that type of mirror would be found though. Might have to cut a piece of glass and then send it out to to be coated.
Thanks for bringing this up. Another solution would be mounting a beam-splitter in front of the lens, with a telescope etc. for focusing. Much like a cine lens with a dog leg viewfinder. This has the advantages of continuous viewing and requiring only a small (relative to the format's size) mirror.
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