Is this uneven development?

[Dugan]

I propose that the bottom of the figurines being cut off is due to bellows sag/front rise.

[jamgolf]

The only movement I employed was the forward tilt of the rear standard, to get the figurines in focus from top to bottom. I think I was too concerned about the faces and bodies and perhaps failed to pay attention to the bases being cut off. Oops
At least that's what I think happened to the bases .. I could be wrong though.

[Roger Beck]

what tripod head is that? unusual design

[jamgolf]

what tripod head is that? unusual design

It's Luland LD115. It's similar to Ries A200. The reason I got it instead of Ries is that it came with a custom fast plate, to attach to the camera base with 3 screws.
I posted info in this thread:
https://www.largeformatphotography.i...tech-GXP/page3

[paulbarden]

"How can I avoid these types of artifacts in the future?"

There are several issues none of which look like uneven development. On the left is a light leak, on the right side of both negs is a lighter strip, and another strip on the bottom, not sure what that is but something preventing exposure or development in that area. The rest of the negs look evenly processed.Attachment 215335

Looks like the dark slide was not pulled all the way out.

[jamgolf]

Looks like the dark slide was not pulled all the way out.

Darkslide was actually in my hand. I don't leave it inserted because I want to flip it after taking the shot to indicate the sheet has been exposed.

[Chauncey Walden]

Sagging bellows is a definite problem. If you have old time strap and hooks on your bellows, use them to shorten the back ens to straighten the bellows. If not, you'll have to support the bottom of the bellows or add a top bar from camera to frame and dangle the bellows from that. I good look at the stopped down iris of the lens from the ground glass corners could help in preventing problems also. It is always good practice to cover the camera with a darkcloth to prevent light leaks around the film holder, especially into the darkslide slot if the darkslide is totally removed (the slots will eventually develop leaks).

[jamgolf]

Sagging bellows is a definite problem. If you have old time strap and hooks on your bellows, use them to shorten the back ens to straighten the bellows. If not, you'll have to support the bottom of the bellows or add a top bar from camera to frame and dangle the bellows from that. I good look at the stopped down iris of the lens from the ground glass corners could help in preventing problems also. It is always good practice to cover the camera with a darkcloth to prevent light leaks around the film holder, especially into the darkslide slot if the darkslide is totally removed (the slots will eventually develop leaks).

All good points and suggestions. I will try to follow this advice. Thanks!

[jamgolf]

So, I continued with my plan and developed the remaining 2 sheets also. The third one in Ilfosol DD-X (1+4 at 68 F 10 minutes) and the last one in Pyrocat-HD (1.5 : 1 :150 at 68 F 48 minutes) Extreme Minimal Agitation method. Vigorous agitation for ~2 minutes at first then for 15 seconds at minute 17 then another 15 seconds at minute 34 and then stop in distilled water at 48th minute mark.

I can clearly see the difference in fine detail offered by Pyrocat-HD EMA but I also see what I think is "uneven development". Is it?

Pyrocat-HD EMA (Left) vs Pyrocat-HD Normal (Right)


I see this weird pattern in the Pyrocat-HD EMA sheet, on both sides of figurines


Really like the detail in the extreme minimal agitation (EMA) sheet but these swirl marks are worrisome.
Other than the swirl marks, the sheet looks evenly developed and quite nice.
What could have caused this?
How may I avoid them?

[jamgolf]

And for completeness, here is the DD-X (Right) sheet next to Perceptol (Left):
Between these two I prefer Perceptol. It appears to have more detail.