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  1. #1
    Drew Bedo's Avatar
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    Kodak Dry Plates

    I have gotten these dry plates by Kodak. They are vbintage 1990s, and I am guessing they had something to do wit6h masking for etching chips (?!).

    Anybody here have any experience? I am going to test a few plates but it would help to have an approximate ISO rating to start off with: 2,6, 12, 100?
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails IMG_0855.jpg   IMG_0856.jpg  
    Drew Bedo
    www.quietlightphoto.com
    http://www.artsyhome.com/author/drew-bedo




    There are only three types of mounting flanges; too big, too small and wrong thread!

  2. #2
    Tin Can's Avatar
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    Re: Kodak Dry Plates

    I know Nothing!

    But this thread leads a bit

    https://www.photrio.com/forum/thread...lopers.116874/
    Tin Can

  3. #3

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    Re: Kodak Dry Plates

    We used a lot of ortho film when I was in High School in graphic arts for the pre-press work. I used to play with it at that time in the early 1970's altering full tone to line etc. offset negatives and positives. The ASA was really slow 8 or 12 ASA so I didn't try it in camera. At that time I was only shooting 135mm format. It was also on a thinner plastic base 4x5 film. There may have been a faster ortho film that was shot in camera. I remember developing it in D76 and of A and B developer. There is another thread see: https://www.largeformatphotography.i...films-what-for
    Last edited by Robert Opheim; 10-Apr-2021 at 14:12.

  4. #4
    Drew Bedo's Avatar
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    Re: Kodak Dry Plates

    There is developer information on the box. What I need is some idea of how sensitive (or insensitive) the plates are.
    Drew Bedo
    www.quietlightphoto.com
    http://www.artsyhome.com/author/drew-bedo




    There are only three types of mounting flanges; too big, too small and wrong thread!

  5. #5
    Tin Can's Avatar
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    Re: Kodak Dry Plates

    The only way to figure out the speed, is to test in camera with a 10 stop pull of the darkslide

    Do it under constant light of the type you will use

    Everybody wastes one to test, may as well make it a useful test, as they are now rare

    Asa 1-2-4-8-15-30-60-125-250-500=10 stops, you will find

    I suggest Ilford PQ Universal Developer, water stop, any Fixer you have, I use TF5 for everything from paper, to plates to film

    Quote Originally Posted by Drew Bedo View Post
    There is developer information on the box. What I need is some idea of how sensitive (or insensitive) the plates are.
    Tin Can

  6. #6
    Drew Bedo's Avatar
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    Re: Kodak Dry Plates

    Thank you T-C:

    Ten stops on one exposure? If I could do that it would be great, b ut sounds complicated in terms of physically manipulating the slide and working out the exposure sequence. I will have to think about how to do that.

    My initial thoughts were to do a test for ISO 25-50-100 on one plate in three sections: Slide fully open for say 1 sec, slide i/3 closed for an additional one second and slide 2/3 closed for two seconds.

    An alternative that occurred to me was to use a split slide that has a 4x10 window offset to one side. This would allow one pano 4x10 shot at the top and another at the bottom using front Rise/Fall. Each exposure would be one full stop different. This technique might be left for later to refine the estimated rating or to refine development.

    Wow: Ten stops in one go . . .ten exposures on one plate . . . .

    We will be at the beach in two weeks which will provide consistent conditions over a wide open composition.
    Drew Bedo
    www.quietlightphoto.com
    http://www.artsyhome.com/author/drew-bedo




    There are only three types of mounting flanges; too big, too small and wrong thread!

  7. #7
    Nodda Duma's Avatar
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    Re: Kodak Dry Plates

    Drew I’d suggest starting at ISO 12 and bracket +/- 1 stop as initial test. Since they’re ortho you can develop them under a safelight...don’t pull them until they look too dark in the developing tray. Pick a developer to control contrast like you would for litho film. Good luck!

    -Jason
    Newly made large format dry plates available! Look:
    https://www.pictoriographica.com

  8. #8

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    Re: Kodak Dry Plates

    These are orthochromatic plates so they work best with natural sunlight. They lose a lot of sensitivity in deep shade. I don't kno if the following will help, but maybe:

    According to Photo Lab Index , Supplement No. 142
    Kodak Process Plates Tungsten 2
    Kodak 33 Positive Daylight 40
    Tungsten 16

  9. #9

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    Re: Kodak Dry Plates

    I do believe that Wynn Bullock used a bit of ortho while working in forested areas...and while his exposures were quite long, they could be quite stunning, tonality-wise (especially in areas with accompanying low ground cover)...I think because of the high blue/green sensitivity - so foliage rode high and shadows were very natural and open, with skin-tones (he did some "forest with nude figures" also) very delicate. At any rate...its been on my bucket-list for quite some time now to try some ortho myself at some point...in just such forested surroundings, perhaps with a nude figure... or two! (or maybe not!)

  10. #10

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    Re: Kodak Dry Plates

    John I suggest you get used to Ortho film in sunlight conditions at al times of day before heading into the "forest". About 90% of what I use is Ortho, but I haven't been in a forest with it for several years. I am heading to the Redwoods Thursday and will take my UV meter to assist in determining exposures. I expect the effective speed to be from 1/8-1/4 usual daylight speed.

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