Just 3D printed a technika board

[Jim Andrada]

I thought I'd give it a try. There are a couple of small things I'd change for the next board, but 5 minutes with a fine file and it fits and the light trap seems to be properly aligned. Seems reasonably strong - certainly strong enough for anything I'm likely to mount on the Technika. I have a couple of ideas to reinforce it, though, just in case. It took a few hours in Rhino 7 and two less successful prints. I can print a board in about 2 to 2 1/2 hours and it doesn't use much material - maybe $1 or $2. I printed it with the holes for the flange and mounting screws in place and left a few millimeters of solid fill around the holes to allow for a little bit of adjustment.

I could print two boards at a time - and 5 hours isn't bad - just fire it up at night and pick up the new boards in the AM. If anyone else wants to print one and fool with it I'd be happy to send you the Stp/Stl files, or the Rhino CAD files in any common file type you like.

[Peter De Smidt]

Good work, Jim!

[sharktooth]

That's cool!

I've been debating getting a 3D printer since the cost has come down a lot. What kind of machine are you using, and what material are you using for the boards? Do you think it would be strong enough to make a recessed board?

[Jim Andrada]

Thanks Peter.

I got a Dremel 3D45. It was a little inder $2k. I actually got it to makeparts for a sensor array Ixm eorking with, but I started out making things like stirage boxes for the feeezer and lens caps and accessories for my power wheelchair.

I use a modified PLA that Dremel calls Eco- ABS. It's reasonably strong. I want to try Nylon as well. Recessed boatd should be fine. This printet has a maximum ptint volume of 6.5 x 6.5x10 approximately

The hardest part is that you need to have a decent CAD program to actually design something and these programs have a steep learning curve.

[Tin Can]

Interesting, what machine?

[Jim Andrada]

The Dremel 3D45. I think it might be made by Bosch. They have a good cloud software package that lets you upload your CAD filed and their software slices the object into layers and sends the files to your printer. Mine is in the next room but I send stuff to it via the cloud.

[Graham Patterson]

With a Fused Deposition Modelling printer you would have to decide whether to print it in two parts, or deal with supports for otherwise unsupported horizontals.

It would not be too hard to do as a lens board with an aperture and mounting rim, and a cup with the correct shutter hole (print with the large open end up). Adding extra rims for cementing would probably be wise, and you would have to work out how to operate the controls if it is a deep recess. I would probably redo my f8 Super Angulon cone board for my MPPVII that way if I needed a new one. The original was made some years ago out of ABS sheet and plumbing parts.

I usually use OpenSCAD for my projects, but I am more of a programmer than an artist/designer/engineer. I don't think I would have enough photography-related projects alone to justify the printer.

[Jim Andrada]

Yeah. Coming up with a strategy for positioning the build is tricky. I've had some parts break when trying to remove the generated support structure. I do sometimes find myself building sub- parts and gluing them together. For a recessed boatd I'd build the "outer" board face down with a central tube and then make a "cap" with a lens hole and glue it in place. I'd have a recess atvthe top of yhe yube and a mating part on the cap so the adhesive wasn't under stress - i've had glue failures and the super glues don't do well with impact stresses- might use plastic epoxy depending on the application. Threaded inserts can be a good idea as well. Basic design for manufacturing.

I wrote my first program for pay in 1959 although "wrote" isn't the operable word when one programs by wiring a plugboard.

By the way, i don't think I'd have gotten into3D printing just for photo stuff. I'm working on AI algorithms for interpreting data streams from sensor arrays to digitize smell and I need to build enclosures for the arrays and associated hardware so that's what I really got the printer for. I'm just building stuff like a back up cam and proximity sensors for my wheelchair and camera stuff as learning exercises.

[DHodson]

Looks good Jim - thanks for posting.

Like you mentioned, I've found my 3D printer to be useful for lots of things like odd size lens caps, lens storage boxes, lens boards etc but other stuff as well. I had trouble finding a plate holder for the Lane glass negatives so managed to figure that out - took a bit of fiddling but worked out in the end. Each holder takes one 4x5 plate and uses the slides from a regular negative holder. My printer is a relatively less expensive one with a single extruder (Tevo Tornadao - $475 Can) but it works fine for what I need.

Regards
Dave

[Tin Can]

A few year ago I saw a Home Depot display of Dremel Printers, earlier versions

The Dremel 3D45. I think it might be made by Bosch. They have a good cloud software package that lets you upload your CAD filed and their software slices the object into layers and sends the files to your printer. Mine is in the next room but I send stuff to it via the cloud.