Don't get lube on the bellows, especially if it contains silicone! Candle wax, vaseline ????? (%!!>><<@#@#@....!!!). Why not just go spear a cave bear and melt its fat, since at least making a fire has presumably been discovered. A teflon lube that fully dries makes a lot more sense.
In the past, I looked into graphite as a clean lubricant. Problem is, graphite can corrode aluminum. The solution was molybdenum disulfide. It’s a very fine powder that you apply by dipping a q tip in alcohol, dip in the powder and then rub on the area you want to smoothen the action of. I used it on parts of my Arca and it worked nicely. Not sure if it’s any better than a dry film lube, but another option.
I have spray cans of both teflon and molybdenum disulfide
I also try not to use them anywhere
As Bob says ask the maker
I once tried some already posted solutions, don't do them, it is a very long task to clean...off
Don't breathe any spray
Try cleaning ALL friction spots before
Tin Can
The rails clean up well enough with solvent (unless corroded), and a trace of teflon grease rubbed into them until you can't feel it, but there is another area to be cleaned...
On the sliding block under the FS needs polishing... Carefully remove FS from the rails, and while not bending bellows unnaturally, take q-tip with non abrasive metal polish or solvent like lighter fluid and scrub undersides well, then repeat... Q-tip should have black oxide stain on it from cleaning... Then rub a tiny amount of teflon grease or wipe a little silicone spray on with a q-tip...
These things get sticky from old lubes and metals build up oxides that get a little sticky, due to the tight tolerances of the parts...
An old TEK III I restored a few years ago was stiff on most adjustment, until all polished and cleaned moving surfaces, and after, everything moved like silk or butter... Like new...
A CLA by a good tech will surprise you (in a great way)... Don't hold off too long...
Steve K
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