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Thread: Dodging & Burning 8x10 Contact Prints

  1. #11

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    Re: Dodging & Burning 8x10 Contact Prints

    Quote Originally Posted by Vaughn View Post
    I have used a sharpie on the glass part way thru the exposure. Other types of masking are options, too.

    If the exposures are long enough, you can do a lot of 'playing' around. Take the frame from under the light or turn it off...change the masking, turn the light back on. Might be habit forming. Use cut pieces of rubilith to dodge large areas, or shaded (pencil?) on frosted mylar.

    There are (were) photographers who built masks for each negative on glass. Filed them away and used them if they needed another copy. Lots of possibilities.

    add: inkjet masks is another possibility.
    Great idea! I was thinking about this using a Mylar material and a green, water soluble ink Sharpie so that the ink could be removed with a damp cloth. (If needed.)

    As it turns out, I have a masking set with a punch and a contact printer with registration pins. I could cut Mylar sheets to exactly the same size as the interior of the contact printer and sandwich these sheets in the frame. (See photos. I would sandwich them so that the glass was between the Mylar and the negative.) In bright light, i could outline areas to be dodged or burned using the green Sharpie. I enlarge with VC paper. I was thinking that green would be least likely to cast a shadow, since it would be a low contrast "shadow".

    Anyway, since a punched negative would always be positioned in exactly the same position with respect to the printing frame, I could keep these Mylar sheets with the negative for future printing.

    Inkjet masks opens up many possibilities, especially with pin registration. (Scary.)

  2. #12

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    Re: Dodging & Burning 8x10 Contact Prints

    Quote Originally Posted by Eric Woodbury View Post
    There are red dyes you can use to 'dodge'. Paint them on the back of the neg.

    Morley Baer made 1:1 enlargements with 8x10 rather than contact print. This made dodge and burn easier.
    I think that I like the look of an enlarged print as much as a contact print. So, this is a really interesting option.

  3. #13

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    Re: Dodging & Burning 8x10 Contact Prints

    Thanks very much for all the suggestions. This thread opens up so many ideas in what can be done.

  4. #14

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    Re: Dodging & Burning 8x10 Contact Prints

    Also, by printing on MG papers and using a colorhead or filter, one can exploit printing on the long scale of the (Y) channel of the head (grade 1 1/2 to grade 1) to even out the contrasts without burn/dodge... Then the exposure level can vary, and paper will need longer exposure with (Y), so more time/wiggle room during timed exposure...

    Many printers have not explored the many ranges possible on that end of the scale... Takes practice and much testing, but an interesting long scale print... Take notes!!!


    Steve K

  5. #15
    Mike in NY's Avatar
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    Re: Dodging & Burning 8x10 Contact Prints

    If I've done a test print to determine my exposure time, then I can use scissors to cut out the parts of the test print that I want to use as a mask overlay, or to attach to a thin stiff wire. I can either use the test print paper itself, or use the cutouts as a template to trace them on frosted mylar and cut the mylar as needed.
    I dream in black and white.

  6. #16
    おせわに なります! Andrew O'Neill's Avatar
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    Re: Dodging & Burning 8x10 Contact Prints

    I use frosted mylar sheets and a soft pencil to dodge/burn areas. The mylar is laid on top of the negative, then covered with heavy glass. I also do this for kallitypes.

  7. #17
    Vaughn's Avatar
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    Re: Dodging & Burning 8x10 Contact Prints

    For some of my alt processes, exposure times can range up to a hour. I do not like the idea of trying to hand dodge under 750W of light. Plus a 50% burn for 30 minutes? in several different areas? No thank you! Masks...yes.
    "Landscapes exist in the material world yet soar in the realms of the spirit..." Tsung Ping, 5th Century China

  8. #18

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    Re: Dodging & Burning 8x10 Contact Prints

    Out of curiosity, for dodging why frosted mylar instead of clear? Preference, easier to work with (less chance of artifacts, smoother transitions)?

  9. #19
    Vaughn's Avatar
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    Re: Dodging & Burning 8x10 Contact Prints

    The tooth of the frosting takes pencil easier.
    "Landscapes exist in the material world yet soar in the realms of the spirit..." Tsung Ping, 5th Century China

  10. #20
    William Whitaker's Avatar
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    Re: Dodging & Burning 8x10 Contact Prints

    Quote Originally Posted by Vaughn View Post
    The tooth of the frosting takes pencil easier.
    I think it was Alan Ross who wrote of masking using pencil shading on frosted plastic several years ago (like 20?). I recall at that time I was in California with my first darkroom and found his technique to be very useful. Seems it was written up in View Camera, but I'm not sure.

    I just found it online: https://alan-ross-photography.myshop...ective-masking
    It ain't free. But the author is beyond reproach. My recollection of reading it prompts me to believe that the technique would be useful for contact printing as well as enlarging.
    I hope so.

    This is a great thread. I have enjoyed the many contributions!

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