Camera / tripod brace for vibration

[Robert Opheim]

I have been using longer exposure times recently with smaller apertures for close up work in the field. Camera movement seems to be an issue. I have gone to using 2 tripods for longer exposures with a Technikardan 4x5 as well as with a 8x10 Calumet. In parts of other threads on this Forum I have noticed some members using the Bogen / Manfrotto 359 brace with an addition clamp at the top (I presume - as this was made for a motion image slider as an end brace) I would be interested in hearing what the members on this thread are using in the field and in studio to stop tripod to camera movement for long bellows extensions. I don't see the Bogen / Manfrotto 359 for sale anymore. There are several movie slider braces for sale: Alzo, Bogen / Manfrotto 122b could be adapted, and others. I don't have the heaviest tripod but am using a series 4 aluminum Gitzo with a PL5 head (no center column), and have gone to using a series 3 for a second tripod. I have done a informal study with my construction lazer level set on top of either of my cameras on top of either the series 4 Gitzo or a wooden professional Junior tripod. It seems that there is continued vibration for 10 seconds from any of my single camera to tripod joints with out a second tripod. My Calumet C-1 is the worst - and heaviest - its also 34 inched long when fully extended.

[Willie]

Ries wooden tripod with their platform head. Then put the dark cloth over the camera to further keep it still.(no, don't cover the lens)
Get all set. Remove darkslide and re-drape the cloth over the film holder. Use a cable release to trip the shutter and don't pull on it.
The wooden tripos is very good at reducing vibration.

[Eric Woodbury]

Best way to overcome camera movement is lots of mass closely coupled to the camera. A friend of mine used a Majestic tripod with diamond plate as the top of the tripod head. If you work in the field, it is several trips to set up any distance from your car.

[archphotofisher]

Hang a 10 lb lead ball from the center of the tripod, worked for me.

[neil poulsen]

How about a tripod and a monopod to steady the front of the camera. It's easy to carry.

[Oslolens]

Manfrotto 359 with a simple clamp instead of heavy super clamp. https://www.fotojorgen.no/produkter/...g-lens-support
Edit:
Is what I use for macro and long lenses

[Daniel Unkefer]

8x10 Sinar Norma Long Apo Ronar 1 by Nokton48, on Flickr

I've been configuring this 8x10 Sinar Norma to use out in the field for up to 4x telephoto photography. I have long Rodenstock Apo Ronar barrel dialyte type telephotos right now up to 790mm F14. They made a 1070mm f14 same era and style looking for one but not as expensive as a car. This is all original Sinar Norma 100% except for the clamping plate which was made for me by a machinist friend. I have never seen the original Norma one available. Basically I used this camera for B&w studio portraiture and I am taking the old concept which worked very well for me and scaling it up.

[Joshua Dunn]

If I need it I use a Manfrotto 143N Magic Arm with two Manfrotto 035 Super Clamps, one on each end.

[Robert Opheim]

Daniel - your solution to camera vibration is similar to what Edward Weston used on his 8x10. I think that the Sinar Norma 8x10 is one of the most robust cameras. My issue is the connection between the camera and the tripod. It looks like you are using a Ries tripod?

[Robert Opheim]

Joshua, your solution is exactly what I have been looking at. Are the Magic Arms rigid enough to transfer the compression / tension loads to the legs - with the hinge joint in the center? This should really work to deaden camera vibration occurring at the camera to tripod joint. Especially with two Magic Arms!