Originally Posted by
esearing
No EMA requires very dilute chemistry with long periods of development and 2-3 agitations. For many of the woodland/waterfall scenes I shoot I use more normal development dilution and times with fewer agitations because they usually have plenty of tonal contrast and a full range of tones. It was something I had to see for myself and tested 1) normal dilution and development times with agitation every 1 minute, 2) slightly diluted with few agitations and normal+ time (1 4x5 sheet) , vs 3) EMA - very dilute for double normal time and few agitations. The effect is different for multi tone images than it is for low contrast scenes.
My findings and preferences:
1) contrast boosting with some loss of highlight details in high contrast scene, good overall for low contrast 3stops to 6 stops SBR. (no bright sky or white water unless zone 8 max. good for separation of green foliage)
2) slightly flatter negative with good compression - requires a grade 2.5 or higher filter for MGFB Classic, grade 3 for MGFB warmtone. Generally use for 5-7 stops SBR with lots of midtone greens/grays (waterfalls with lots of greenery in morning light)
3) slightly sharper appearance and more details in highlight separation - Use with 7+ stops SBR or very low contrast scene with zones 7-9 subjects (white churches with bright sky, or light brown roots/veins in a light gray rock)
For low contrast scenes I sometimes use #2 or #3 and extend time to increase contrasts depending on mood and time available.
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