Do you standardize your screw-on filters by thread size?

[Bernice Loui]

All of the non-LF lenses get a lens protector-UV filter as the way these lenses and cameras are used is different than a view camera.
That said, It remains a good idea to leave a lens protector-UV filter on a modern LF lens that can accept a threaded on filter.

Don't use much if any filters for LF these days. The only ones that have stood the test of time is a polarizer, ND and UV-lens protector. For these on view camera, they tend to be either Series 9 or 75mm square on a Sinar filter holder with either a series 9 or 75mm square filter holder. This is not likely going to work for a photographer wanting the lowest weight field folder due to bulk, weight and...

The better solution would be to collect the filters needed to fit the largest lens filter diameter, then apply filter step rings as needed. It is extremely important to very, very lightly lubricate these filter step rings before installing them on to the lens and filter and do NOT over tighten them. A tiny snug is more than enough. They have a great tendency to get stuck on to the lens or filter on to the lens.

There are really BIG filters for lenses like the Angeniuex which takes a 110mm filter size or the 480mm f4.5 Xenar which is 122mm.


Bernice

[Heroique]

It is extremely important to very, very lightly lubricate these filter step rings before installing them on to the lens and filter and do NOT over tighten them.

I’ve always relied on under-tightening, never lubrication, to prevent filter sticking.

Aluminum in the cold seems high risk, brass lower risk. I like the B+W filters and stepping rings that are brass.

I’m curious about anybody’s choice of lubricant. No matter how sparing the application, is it safe for the glass? Might it still get on your fingers for spreading everywhere?

[Bernice Loui]

Aluminum has a fond tendency to gall. Add to this problem, the common anodized aluminum is porous with a hard-rough surface that is also fond of seizing onto what it is threaded on. Adding more to these problems, the step ring or filter ring deforms under the force created by threading them together. This results in essentially a big spring that works well to hold all the parts together preventing dis-assembly.

Brass filters and filter step rings are better, but still prone to these problems.

Word to the wise, under-tighten any threaded on filter or be well prepared for the filter to be stuck on GOOD.

As for thread lubricant, synthetic watch oil. Apply by using an about 50% un-wound Q-tip swap (reduces the amount of oil retained in the cotton Q-tip) then very lightly make one round with the oily Q-tip around the threads and seating surface. Goal is a very light and thin film of oil, any more will cause the oil to travel into places it should never go.


Bernice

(auto-spell needs to be disciplined..)

[Heroique]

Nice tips, Bernice.

("Synthetic watch oil" ... maybe a good choice for dark slides that seize in the cold.)

[Tin Can]

Good plan

I will

Bernice

[Drew Wiley]

An excellent "strap wrench" for seized filters in the field is simply a length of plastic Zip Tie. Useful to have in any pack for all kinds of unexpected repairs too, especially snowshoes.

[Bernice Loui]

Yes, if the filter or step ring is stuck. Device like a tie-wrap when used properly can work as a strap wrench applying aprox equal force on the circular filter/step ring to aid in removal. Adding a friction enhancer like a strip of rubber equal or close to equal the circumference of the filter or step ring with the tie-wrap can make this device more effective by increasing the friction between the effective strap and circular item to be removed. If a two points of force tool (like pliers ) is used, the essentially two points of force will ovalize deform the filter or step ring causing more friction within the threads making separation THAT much more difficult and the risk of serious damage to the filter or step ring is extremely real.


Bernice

An excellent "strap wrench" for seized filters in the field is simply a length of plastic Zip Tie. Useful to have in any pack for all kinds of unexpected repairs too, especially snowshoes.

[Doremus Scudder]

Like Drew, I have two sets of filters, one 52mm and one 67mm. I don't have any lenses that take filters larger than this - on purpose. I started years ago with Nikon Fs, so had a bunch of 52mm filters to start with (still have the Nikon stuff - haven't used in in 25 years or more...).

When I need to go really light, I carry small lenses and only the 52mm set, which is six filters in a home-made filter wallet; #8, #11, #15, #25, an 80A and a polarizer. I usually have a couple of random 52mm filters stuck in a pocket or pouch as well, usually a #44 gel mounted between glass and sometimes a #58. These fit my ultra-light lens kit: 100mm WF Ektar, 135mm Plasmat, 203mm Ektar, 300mm Nikkor M (or a 240mm Fuji A).

All my lenses smaller than 52mm are stepped up so they take 52mm filters (I had to machine my own adapter for the 203mm Ektar), plus one WF Ektar 135mm that's stepped down Series VII to 52mm since it is only about a mm smaller diameter. Stepping rings live on the lenses permanently. I've sourced other lens caps for a few lenses just so I can leave the step-up rings on.

But, I've got a few lenses that take 67mm filters (90mm, 75mm) that I love to use, so I've got an identical set of 67mm filters in a filter wallet along with a 52-67mm adapter ring, and a 9-stop ND filter. If I need to, I can take just the larger filters with me and use them on all my lenses, but the 52mm set is so light, I'll often carry both.

Almost all my filters now are B+W or Helipan brass-ringed and coated filters. I've got a few Tiffen filters in aluminum rings (e.g., #58) because they aren't available from other manufacturers.

Typical field kit for me is 90mm Nikkor SW f/8, 135mm Plasmat of some kind, 203mm Ektar, (240mm Fuji A), and 300mm Nikkor M.
In the city or close quarters its 75mm Fuji SW, Nikkor 90mm SW, WF Ektar 135mm, 180mm Fuji A and 240 Fuji A.

I've got a 150mm Plasmat, a 210mm Fuji L (Plasmats are too big for me in that focal lenght) and a Nikkor M 450mm as well that I use less often. I mention all the lenses because the smaller ones can all take 52mm filters and the larger ones, 67mm, in case anyone is interested.

Oh, BTW, lubricant for filter rings = nose grease. I spent my youth fly fishing the Rogue River in Oregon; nose grease was the lubricant of choice for the rod ferrules. Works great for lots of things.

Best,

Doremus

[Havoc]

Oh, BTW, lubricant for filter rings = nose grease. I spent my youth fly fishing the Rogue River in Oregon; nose grease was the lubricant of choice for the rod ferrules. Works great for lots of things.

Best,

Doremus

I had a neighbourgh that swore by it for locks.

[tgtaylor]

Back when I was a noob shooting 35mm I bought screw-on filters. But when I moved to MF and then LF I switched to a Cokin Z-Pro filter system and bought 4' – 100mm rectangular filters. The largest adapter ring for the Z-Pro is 95mm which is big enough for all my lens save for the 14” Veritar and 400mm Pentax 67 f4. The Pentax takes rear mounted filters which I never bothered with so far and I hand-hold a 100mm 3-stop ND in front of the Veritar when using soft focus. (A few years ago Nikon sold a universal filter holder that would fit the barrel of all lens. It was expensive but apparently didn't sell well and was discontinued. I first saw it when B&H held a fire sale on them but I didn't have a use for it at the time. Anybody have one of these that can comment?) The only screw-on filters that I currently use are 3-stop ND glass filters that I keep attached to a 85mm Pentax soft focus lens (35mm) and a Pentax 120mm soft focus 67 lens which saves set-up time when shooting with those lenses. For the rest of the lens I carry the Z-Pro in a soft case with all the step-up rings attached that fit the smallest of my lenses (49mm) to 95mm – the size of the adapter ring.