Looking for 5x7 macro lens recommendation

[Conrad . Marvin]

My 2 cents.....Macro Symmar 120 mm.

[Luis-F-S]

I'd do a 150 G-Claron Great coverage and you can reach 1:1 with 14" bellows and a slightly wide on 5x7 at distance. A whole lot more reasonable and accessible than some of the other ones suggested. Also, a little more separation to the subject. L

[Bernice Loui]

Simply add enough bellows and camera extension with your current lens being used.. then position the camera set up and lens as needed.

~Easily fill the entire plate. Camera is the real issue here, not lens alone.


Bernice

So back to lenses... I normally use one of my 5x7 lenses to get within a couple of feet of small subject matter. But for this upcoming project I'll be shooting really small objects and my existing lenses can't fill the plate with the image.

[Mike in NY]

Simply add enough bellows and camera extension with your current lens being used...
Bernice

I recently looked to see if I could find an extension rail appropriate for my particular camera, and have not been able to find one. I did, however, find someone who makes lens cones that I may be able to custom order, as they have a base that fits the size of my lens boards, and I can specify the opening for the diameter needed to mount the lens at the front end. But if that shouldn't work out, I want to know what my lens options are.

[Bernice Loui]

Or modify this camera to allow a LOT more bellows and camera extension that does not involve using an extender lens cone.

Or get another camera that has no real limits on camera extension or bellows.

IMO, the lens solution is not ideal in this case.


Bernice

[Mike in NY]

Or modify this camera to allow a LOT more bellows and camera extension that does not involve using an extender lens cone.

Or get another camera that has no real limits on camera extension or bellows.

IMO, the lens solution is not ideal in this case.


Bernice

Yes, you've made that clear, but buying another 5x7 camera isn't what I'm after. I thank you for sharing your opinion all the same.

[Mike in NY]

I'd do a 150 G-Claron Great coverage and you can reach 1:1 with 14" bellows and a slightly wide on 5x7 at distance. A whole lot more reasonable and accessible than some of the other ones suggested. Also, a little more separation to the subject. L

Luis, that's an interesting suggestion. After checking the 'bay, you're right that it's much more accessible than some of the lenses previously suggested. And for ferrotypes I'm not preoccupied with precision optics, so it might be worth looking into. I'll do an image search to see if I can find some close-ups made with this lens to get an idea of how it renders.

Everyone, thank you for the many suggestions. I've enjoyed looking up these lenses to learn more about them. I really appreciate folks taking the time to share their knowledge and recommendations.

[Mike in NY]

Luis, I found this thread here... an interesting read, and I like the close-up image that's included (but don't know if it's a crop).

https://www.largeformatphotography.i...d-Repro-Claron

[Oren Grad]

Mike, if you're looking at process lenses, the 150 mm Computar will also easily cover 5x7 in close work. I use mine, stopped way down, as a wide for non-close work with whole plate.

[B.S.Kumar]

My humble suggestions, based on my philosophy of simple solutions:

1. If it is going to be collodion and ferrotyping, you aren't looking for 100 lpm in the corners. Wouldn't a symmetrical lens do the job adequately? Or perhaps an enlarging lens (in a shutter, if necessary)? In the early days of digital photography, Schneider labeled Componon lenses with the Digitar name...

2a. Does your camera have rear focusing? If your camera has only front focusing, you're going to have trouble maintaining focus and size simultaneously. That was the reason I sold my first 4x5 camera - a Linhof Super Technika V and bought a Sinar F2. Life became much easier...
If you have a sliding plate (like a macro rail) between the camera and the tripod, you can move the entire camera back and forth, rather than trying to move the tripod an inch at a time.
2b. I assume you are going to photograph the object like a typical product shot from a top angle? Does your camera have enough movements to ensure that the film plane is parallel to the obect? If that is not the case, a longer lens might be advisable to avoid distortion.

Kumar