Reveni spot meter

[Tin Can]

I eagerly await the retail offering

I am done with KS

[Alan Klein]

How does Kickstarter work?

[Tin Can]

Not answering that Alan

I learned by expensive experience over many years

How does Kickstarter work?

[Ulophot]

Neil, I think Daniel's points are well-taken. While I have a Pentax V and got lucky at about $100 (plus the better part of another Franklin to get it fixed up and calibrated), One typically sees $300 and above for spotmeters that haven't been made for a very long time. I think we're fortunate to have someone filling the gap with a device that is getting great reviews from serious LF photographers and has updated features. If I were in the market for a spot meter, the price of this one would be quite attractive.

[Alan9940]

How does Kickstarter work?

Signup, and then back the project. You're charged the pledge amount on the day the campaign closes (March 10 for the Reveni Spot meter), if it's fully funded (reached its goal.) The Reveni Spot meter campaign hit its goal in a little over one hour! The major downside to backing a project on Kickstarter is that you're not promised anything. If, for whatever reason(s), the inventor/creator cannot deliver the product, then you're simply out the money. Personally, I've never had that happen. A minor downside is that these projects are rarely delivered on the scheduled stated in the campaign. Hiccups happen which delay the project.

With respect to Reveni Labs and Matt's new spot meter, I figure that he already has a successful product in his current light meter (which I own, btw) and this new spot meter is really nothing drastically new, for him, overall. Given the world situation, I suppose there could be some issues with certain parts and electronics, but I'm hoping for the best.

Unlike whatever Tin Can's experience has been, I have backed several projects on Kickstarter over the years and only one did I not get the product promised. I did get something for my pledge, just not what I was expecting. I won't mention a name because this group is still selling their product today.

[Doremus Scudder]

Certainly one of its nice attractions.

But count on me dropping it/losing it within a year. ;^)

This is from someone whose orange tape around his Pentax digital has kept it from being left in the woods.

Heroique,

My Pentax spot meters are on lanyards that tie to a tab on my vest (about shirt pocket height) or something similar, like a button, or even around my neck. The meter lives in a pocket, but the lanyard is short enough that the meter won't hit the ground if dropped (unless I'm kneeling...). The lanyard has saved my meter more than once...

Best,

Doremus

[Ulophot]

I use a long lanyard somewhat like Doremus's -- same length principle -- but it goes over my head to the opposite shoulder. The meter attaches to a belt clip.

[Andrew O'Neill]

I don't want to use something that uses someone's system of exposure. And if I did use that guy's system, I'd always be paranoid of losing it. It's pretty tiny.

[Alan9940]

I don't want to use something that uses someone's system of exposure. And if I did use that guy's system, I'd always be paranoid of losing it. It's pretty tiny.

You don't have to use Nick's P.M.M. metering system. It also does averaging readings or you could use it as a plain 'ole spot meter. I read in the Kickstarter comments that Matt is looking into implementing some sort of "zone system approach" too. Folks have offered many suggestions in the comments; I just hope it doesn't become overly complicated.

[Daniel Casper Lohenstein]

You don't have to use Nick's P.M.M. metering system. It also does averaging readings or you could use it as a plain 'ole spot meter. I read in the Kickstarter comments that Matt is looking into implementing some sort of "zone system approach" too. Folks have offered many suggestions in the comments; I just hope it doesn't become overly complicated.

I think the P.M.M of Nick Carver is made up of a lot of hot air, so he can promote it as a video. When I look at the P.M.M. mode of the Reveni, it seems that the shadows are measured first, then the highlights. Then an average value is formed. Apparently you can define the target zone for shadows and highlights beforehand, e.g. -2 EV for zone III and +2 EV for zone VII. The computer then asks for the shadows and positions the measured value in zone III if -2 EV was defined beforehand. Then it asks for the highlights, and so on.

- Even though I signed up for the project, there is one serious point of concern: the ISO range: "1, 3, 6, 12, 25, 50, 80, 100, 125, 160, 200, 250, 320, 400, 800, 1600, 3200, 6400, 12800" Because the FP4+ developed 7'00'' in HC110H 1+63 at 20°C reaches density 0.12 in Zone I with an exposure of ISO 32. ISO 32 is not in the ISO range. In the lower ISO range only half steps are listed. Why? Isn't the goal of a spot meter to be accurate in thirds? I would URGENTLY ask the inventor to divide the ISO range into thirds.