Compur 2 (?) cable release attachment problem

[Joseph Kashi]

I just bought a 270mm Red Dot Artar that is apparently adapted to what seems to a rim-set Synchro-Compur 2 shutter. Replacement parts are not available. When I received the lens in the mail the other day, I promptly sent the shutter to Carol Miller/Flutot for a CLA because the shutter had a tendency to stick open.

This seems to be an odd-ball late Compur 2, with a 48+mm lens board mounting hole and rear flange threads of about 45+mm. I cannot find further information about this shutter and would welcome any definitive information.

Carol noticed that the threads on the small metal block used to attach the cable release are gone , it's basically now a straight hole.

Any ideas about how to deal with this so that I can attach an effective cable release?

It also appears that a long throw cable release may be needed. Any ideas there?

Thank you

[Bob Salomon]

If you can use a LInhof board one with the Cable Releases QR system will work as it doesn’t use the cable release threads.

[Harold_4074]

If the metal block doesn't have to be removable by pushing in to the inside of the housing, you could consider getting one of the short cable extensions made for recessed lensboards and epoxying the male end into the block. If you ever have to remove it, you would probably want to take the block off of the shutter body, heat is up with a hot air gun, and peel the epoxy apart. Or soak it for few days in automotive carburetor cleaner.

At least your shutter is in good hands!

[Corran]

I have a similar Compur and a similar problem on mine, as well as that issue on a larger Compur with a 360mm Symmar in it. But on mine, the whole metal block is just gone, with a hole left instead.

I found a couple of my cable releases with tapered ends can be jammed in there and kind of "self-tap" themselves into the cable release hole. As long as you don't go ham on the release, it works. Once, I had the Compur #2 stop working in the field because I was forcing the cable release and it bent part of the internals. At home, I was able to fix it.

I tried a couple of fixes and even asked around for parts but no dice. Can you remove the "block?"

Mine works with a normal cable release.

[Joseph Kashi]

If you can use a LInhof board one with the Cable Releases QR system will work as it doesn’t use the cable release threads.

Hi, Bob

I standardize on Linhof boards and then use them on other cameras via adapters as needed, so this might work. Can you give me some more information about the QR cable release system? I am not really familiar with it.

Thank you for your help.

Joe

[Corran]

The Linhof QR system is terrible. Stay away if you can. Besides which, I don't think it'll work with the Compur #2 anyway. It wouldn't with the ones I have, anyway.

[Joseph Kashi]

If the metal block doesn't have to be removable by pushing in to the inside of the housing, you could consider getting one of the short cable extensions made for recessed lensboards and epoxying the male end into the block. If you ever have to remove it, you would probably want to take the block off of the shutter body, heat is up with a hot air gun, and peel the epoxy apart. Or soak it for few days in automotive carburetor cleaner.

At least your shutter is in good hands!

Thank you, Harold. I have a spare recessed board with the extension that can be removed and glued to a board.

I'll likely try everyone's suggested approaches, as I plan to use this lens on both Linhof boards/adapters as well as my Toho, which takes small, round lens boards.

Weirdly, the Toho came with a board already threaded for this odd-ball shutter (which doesn't even conform to the published Compur 2 spec or my other (dialset) Compur 2, which mounts a 115 Voightlander Ultragon WA.

Joe

[Joseph Kashi]

I have a similar Compur and a similar problem on mine, as well as that issue on a larger Compur with a 360mm Symmar in it. But on mine, the whole metal block is just gone, with a hole left instead.

I found a couple of my cable releases with tapered ends can be jammed in there and kind of "self-tap" themselves into the cable release hole. As long as you don't go ham on the release, it works. Once, I had the Compur #2 stop working in the field because I was forcing the cable release and it bent part of the internals. At home, I was able to fix it.

I tried a couple of fixes and even asked around for parts but no dice. Can you remove the "block?"

Mine works with a normal cable release.

Thank you, Corran:


Whenever I get a used LF lens, the shutter goes to Carol ASAP for a CLA and I factor that into the cost that I'm willing to pay. Carol has even been able to fix a REALLY old huge Volute shutter on a 12-19-23 B&L Protar VIIa but this Compur 2 (?) is apparently even odder than that. I will probably give a try to every non-destructive idea and see which works best here. I'll leave feedback on this thread.

Thank you everyone

Joe

[Bob Salomon]

Hi, Bob

I standardize on Linhof boards and then use them on other cameras via adapters as needed, so this might work. Can you give me some more information about the QR cable release system? I am not really familiar with it.

Thank you for your help.

Joe

It is mounted to the side of the lens and has a wire that goes between the socket and into the cable release hole. The socket works best with a LInhof cable release that is tapered but that has no threads. One would have to be modified for a 2 size shutter but any service center could do that. It’s just spacing and height of the=pblock on the board.
The most current version of this system would not work for you as it requires a short cable release extension that has to screw into your shutter.

[Kevin Crisp]

Apparently this was a problem. I have one with some female threads epoxied into the body of the shutter. And two with a small brass cube epoxied to the lens board. I screw the cable release into the cube into Dyi threaded hole. The shaft of the cable release pokes into the shutter on exposure They all work.