Pyrocat adjustments/improvements

[pkr1979]

Thanks Eric - I think I will :-)

Ive been reading over Sandy's site (http://www.sandykingphotography.com/...ing-developers) again and it seems to me that if I mix 2+2+100 and develop for about 8 minutes at 73F/22-23C (my previous attempt was at 13 min 15 secs at 67-68F/19,5- 20C ) I'll get negs suitable for both silver and carbon:



I'm keen to figure out how he counts time though when using the Jobo. I count as instructed by Tetenal... from first chemical+film contact until next chemical+film contact. Also, here it appears to me as if he is rating TMax400 at 320: https://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Pyrocat/pyrocat.html. I can only assume thats not the case for those charts on his website.

[pkr1979]

I probably prefer the 2+2+100 over the 1+1+100. But Im having a hard time deciding if it should be exposed at 200 or 320.

[esearing]

2:2:100 is needed in Jobo because you are in constant agitation and working with small volume of developer which exhausts quickly and most of your development occurs in a relatively short amount of time. Dump and refill at mid point with fresh developer will boost contrast and gives you the option to maybe use a strong mix for first half, then a weaker mix second half. Another jobo trick I read about is: Empty the tank of your developer, PAUSE for 1 minute before adding a stop/water bath, letting the surface developer on the film continue to work.

PM is definitely softer and provides more gradient transitions than OA and HD. The difference is subtle like FP4+ vs Delta 100.

[Willie]

Get a book. Black & White Photography, by Henry Horenstein is a good one.
Learn to tell underexposure from underdevelopment/over and over.

This is your First Trial. Work with it a bit, learn to read negatives and it will improve.

Many use Pyrocat with excellent results. Many use combinations others would laugh at, with excellent results.

Most anything will work if you take time to learn and finesse things.