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Thread: Pyrocat adjustments/improvements

  1. #1

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    Pyrocat adjustments/improvements

    Hi all,

    So, Ive run my first trial of developing TMax 400 in Pyrocat-M (this is also the first time Ive made and used Pyrocat). And Im not sure what to make of it, and if possible Id like som advise on how to improve the results.

    I did as follows in a Jobo at the lowest rotation speed (TMax 400 exposed at 200, 300 and 400 iso shot with a Pentax 67II):

    1 - pre soak 5 min
    2 - developing | 1+1+100 (8ml + 8ml + 800ml) | 13 min 15 secs | 19,5 - 20 C / 67-68F
    3 - wash/stop (plain water) 2 times 30 secs
    4 - fix 5 min
    5 - wash 8 times 2 min
    6 - stab 1 min

    Im not an expert when it comes to evaluate negatives, but after scanning (filpped using colorperfect and 2 grade simulation) these negatives Id say
    - they lack 'volume' or that they are flat or slightly faded...
    - Unsharp (can be caused by lens/aperture/shutter speed, but som other photos I made the same day with the same equipment with Portra 160 are sharp).


    Click image for larger version. 

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    When it comes to the negatives themseleves I suspect they might be thin, but again, Im not an expert when it comes to evaluating negatives.

    I also developed a roll of TMax 100 (iso 50, 75 and 100) in the same run and I prefer it.


    Click image for larger version. 

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    The thing is, Id like to get into carbon printing eventually so I need to figure out how to use TMax 400... is there any way I could make TMax 400 more like TMax 100?

    Also... do Pyrocat negs scan differently... I mean, is there anything one needs to be aware of when scanning Pyrocat negs compared to 'regular' negs.

    Cheers
    Peter

  2. #2

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    Re: Pyrocat adjustments/improvements

    I tried Pyrocat-M, once, many years ago and don't remember why I stopped using it. However, I use a lot of Pyrocat-HD and have never seen negs that I'd call "thin" nor ever had any issues with scanning one (I use the ColorPerfect plug-in, too, and process film in Jobo Expert Drums as well as different manual methods.) Is it possible to use a 2:2:100 with Pyrocat-M? I use this dilution with Pyrocat-HD to get beefier negs for pt/pd printing. You will most likely need a stronger dilution to make good negs for carbon printing.

  3. #3

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    Re: Pyrocat adjustments/improvements

    Hey and thanks. At least the negative is quite clear. Pyrocat-M and Pyrocat-HD should be almost identical in use... at least according to what Ive read on Sandys' site and on UnblinkingEye. It can be used 2:2:100 as well.

    Now I used 1:1:100 primarily to see how things worked out, and if these were to be printed it would have been silver prints.

  4. #4
    LF/ULF Carbon Printer Jim Fitzgerald's Avatar
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    Re: Pyrocat adjustments/improvements

    I use Pyrocat-HD for all of my negatives at 2:2:100 for carbon printing and T-Max 400 is one of the best films in Pyrocat HD. I would go to the 2:2:100 dilution.

  5. #5

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    Re: Pyrocat adjustments/improvements

    Thanks Jim. Did you ever do silver prints with the 2:2:100 dilution too? With TMax400?

  6. #6

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    Re: Pyrocat adjustments/improvements

    I have no experience with Pyrocat M, but use a lot of 4x5 T-Max 400 in Pyrocat HD in a JOBO Expert drum. I use 2 baths of developer, each for 1/2 of the time as I find that Pyrocat oxidizes rather quickly from agitation in the drum. Doing the two baths makes a significant difference. If your negatives are still flat you can increase the development time by about 10-15% to see if that helps. It sounds too that you might be overexposing—I rate T-Max 400 at 640 ISO, but you should test this for yourself.
    ____________________________________________

    Richard Wasserman

    https://www.rwasserman.com/

  7. #7
    jp's Avatar
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    Re: Pyrocat adjustments/improvements

    I don't use a jobo, but agitate in a tank 1m then every minute for 10s for 14.5 minutes with pyrocat hdc or hd and 1:1:100 at 70f.
    Try some longer development and show a photo of the negative at a window or lightbox or screenshot the epson scanner prescan histogram. Too much can be corrected in scans for the Internet to judge.
    I scan as color in Epson software and set the blue channel to be a different white/black point so it ends up scanning with a neutral tint.
    Casually, your scans look nice.
    Keep film holders clean at all times, and store in plastic ziplock or antistatic ziplock backs when they are not in the camera or being loaded/unloaded.

  8. #8

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    Re: Pyrocat adjustments/improvements

    Thanks. Maybe Im just not used to Pyrocat negs. Ayway... these 3 photos is from left to right - phone camera with neg on a pad lightable app, and then gamma 1 rawscan, and then gamma 2 rawscan:

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    Im using the slowest speed, but maybe it aint slow enough to avoid oxidation.

    Either way, if one looks at the close up of photos in my first post Id like to get TMax400 closer to TMax100.

  9. #9

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    Re: Pyrocat adjustments/improvements

    Quote Originally Posted by pkr1979 View Post
    Thanks Jim. Did you ever do silver prints with the 2:2:100 dilution too? With TMax400?
    I've done a couple on grade 2 (older emulsion batch) with Lodima. Looks fine, but it wasn't TMax 400 that I used.

    Unlike Richard, I've never had any issue with oxidation on my Jobo with Expert Drums running at the slowest speed. I do use two 1L baths, changing at development mid-point, with PMK on the Jobo because that formula oxides quickly.

  10. #10

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    Re: Pyrocat adjustments/improvements

    Thanks Alan. Finding a way to not having to decide up front if youll print silver or carbon would be convenient.

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