Tripod Head For 8x10? Arca Cube, Ries J250, Luland LD115, Acratech GXP

[Drew Wiley]

For those relatively rare almost straight-down shots going headless, a simple strong L-bracket tapped 3/8-16 on both sides does the job at a fraction of the weight and expense of any suitable tripod head. I never bother packing one for the 8x10 and Ries combination. I could hypothetically order a Feisol half-sphere device for the big Feisol CF that I use as my lighter wt 8x10 support; and it would let me point quite steeply if needed.

For MF work with my much lighter Gitzo CF tripod, when I want to go especially light or portable (long distance backpacking or airline carry-on), I have a couple of these angle brackets, an extremely light but solid one made of aircraft aluminum for my 6x9 RF, and a slightly heavier stainless one for my P67. Both are just a few ounces. I do use a Gitzo pan-tilt head for routine MF work. But for the big 300 EDIF P67 lens, it's bolted right down to the platform top of one of same big tripods I use for 8x10. All of my tripods are suitable for my 4X5's, either monorail Sinar or Ebony folder; but I go headless in that case too.

[jamgolf]

Drew, I like your L-bracket idea. Is there a particular one you use/prefer?

[Ari]

I'm in the minority, but I like using a ball head with 8x10, and anything smaller.
FLM CB-48FTR or CB-58FTR can handle the weight distribution very well, and both have a tilt lock function which makes levelling the camera a breeze.

When I don't need a ball head, I use a QR clamp mounted to a half-ball, which usually gives me all the range of motion I need, and keeps the centre of gravity low.

[jamgolf]

So why not get the real stuff instead of a Chinese copy?

The reason I ordered Luland is because they have tripod head models with fast plates. I ordered a longer 150mm fast plate which will have three 3/8" bolts/screws that will attach to the camera. This should provide a very solid and secure 3-point connection between the camera and the head. I feel for use cases that require a vertically downward or upward tilt, an extra secure connection is more important than it is for a relatively level shot. Ries do not offer models with fast plates so there is only one point of connection.





In any case I think I am going to utilize the half-ball/levelling-base for most of my use cases to reduce weight and not use a tripod-head most of the time. 20-30 degrees of adjustment should be fine most of the time.


I think this is what ^ Ari is suggesting.

[Peter De Smidt]

Not using a tripod head works well most of the time, right up until it doesn't. If you know that you'll always be on a flat surface shooting horizontally, then you should be fine. But if you're not, then you risk not getting a shot. For me, that's a much bigger cost than the added weight and cost of the head.

[neil poulsen]

For what camera?

[jamgolf]

For what camera?

I did not mention the camera on purpose, so as to not influence the conversation, but now that I have made my mind the camera I am getting is a SpenopeiKa Leonardo.

[jamgolf]

Not using a tripod head works well most of the time, right up until it doesn't ... that's a much bigger cost than the added weight and cost of the head.

That's a very fair point.

[Ari]

In any case I think I am going to utilize the half-ball/levelling-base for most of my use cases to reduce weight and not use a tripod-head most of the time. 20-30 degrees of adjustment should be fine most of the time.


I think this is what ^ Ari is suggesting.

That's right. I attach a quick-release clamp directly to the half ball. For what I shoot (buildings and portraits), this set-up is fine about 90% of the time.
The ball head comes out when I need to shoot up or down at more than a 15 degree tilt.