Decoding Jobo Gear.

[DannyTreacy]

Hi all,

I have some Jobo equipment that I’d like to use for colour printing of 10 x 8 prints, on my CPP 2 machine.

I got a bunch of tubes in a job lot when I was buying it for processing film.

There are two tubes that I think will be good for printing colour paper but I can’t find any info on how to use them (the Jobo site isn’t much use).

One tube is 2870 the other is 2840, I have a cog type lid but I can’t figure out if they need a special bottom part.

Do I use the base section from the film developing tank?

If anyone knows what pieces are required to construct the correct combination for processing paper that would be great.

Thanks!

[domaz]

If you have a cog lid and the main body of a 2870 you should be able to develop 8x10 prints with basically any bottom part. Ideally you want a bottom part that continues the ridges you will notice the 2870 has. However, for 8x10 that's not strictly necessary I believe because the 8x10 print will never "get pushed" down into the ridges for the bottom part. Hope that makes sense, it will probably make more sense if you attempt to load a piece of 8x10 paper in there.

[ic-racer]

May help:

[DannyTreacy]

Thanks for the info, really helpful.

I looked in the tube for the chemistry information. One tube says it requires 100ml of chemistry for 2 10x8 prints, the other, which looks exactly the same size, says 120ml, I’ll go with 120ml to be safe. I wondered what I should do if I connect both tubes to process 4 sheets of 10x8 paper at once, do I use 220mls of chemistry? I have experience of processing film in the Jobo expert drums and doubling the film doesn’t always equate to doubling the chemistry, so if anyone has any info or experience with this that’s be great.

Thanks!

[Greg]

I'd seriously advise you to acquire a few older JOBO catalogues, then you will have references to go by to decode JOBO items.

I and others use JOPO "print" tubes to process film with no problems. Print tubes are a whole lot easier to find than JOBO "film processing" tubes and usually at a cost savings. As far as I can tell all OEM JOBO tubes are marked with "JOBO' and their product code. Once I bought one advertised as a 3062 JOBO tube. It arrived and was unlabeled, no white writing on the outside, nothing. Fortunately it worked out fine. To this day I don't know if it's just an unlabeled OEM tube or a ripoff. Side by side with a labeled OEM JOBO 3062 they look exactly the same. But still I'd beware of "JOBO brand" tubes that are unmarked as they could be? ripoffs with questionable quality control.

Anybody out there have other experiences with unlabeled JOBO tubes?

[DannyTreacy]

I'd seriously advise you to acquire a few older JOBO catalogues, then you will have references to go by to decode JOBO items.

I and others use JOPO "print" tubes to process film with no problems. Print tubes are a whole lot easier to find than JOBO "film processing" tubes and usually at a cost savings. As far as I can tell all OEM JOBO tubes are marked with "JOBO' and their product code. Once I bought one advertised as a 3062 JOBO tube. It arrived and was unlabeled, no white writing on the outside, nothing. Fortunately it worked out fine. To this day I don't know if it's just an unlabeled OEM tube or a ripoff. Side by side with a labeled OEM JOBO 3062 they look exactly the same. But still I'd beware of "JOBO brand" tubes that are unmarked as they could be? ripoffs with questionable quality control.

Anybody out there have other experiences with unlabeled JOBO tubes?

The tubes I’m using are all labelled and have the recognisable Jobo font.

Do you have any experience with the volumes of chemistry for processing prints?

[Greg]

Haven't processed prints in JOBO drums for probably 20+ years. Did go back to my darkroom notes and found:
2840 Drum 180ml (JOBO recommended 120ml)
2870 Drum 150ml (JOBO recommended 100ml)
Was processing Cibachromes with proprietary Cibachrome chemistry. I'm guessing, I mean really guessing, that I used the recommended amount of chemistry that was used in the OEM Cibachrome Drums. For B&W print processing, didn't make note of the developer(s) that I had used. Processing B&W prints in JOBO drums was very consistent, especially when making multiple prints from the same negative, but to this day always preferred conventional tray development.

[DannyTreacy]

Haven't processed prints in JOBO drums for probably 20+ years. Did go back to my darkroom notes and found:
2840 Drum 180ml (JOBO recommended 120ml)
2870 Drum 150ml (JOBO recommended 100ml)
Was processing Cibachromes with proprietary Cibachrome chemistry. I'm guessing, I mean really guessing, that I used the recommended amount of chemistry that was used in the OEM Cibachrome Drums. For B&W print processing, didn't make note of the developer(s) that I had used. Processing B&W prints in JOBO drums was very consistent, especially when making multiple prints from the same negative, but to this day always preferred conventional tray development.

Thanks for the information, very helpful!

[Duolab123]

There's only so many different tubes. Some are labeled differently. The 2870 is what you add to a 2830 to get a 16 x 20 tube. Or in theory 4 8x10s. If you take the same 2870 tube, this is NOT LABELED and add a un labeled 2810 tank you get a Duolab 2834 tank for processing 1 11x14. Just to add to the fun the Duolab uses a different cog.
The 28xx and 25xx are the same lengths. Seems that if you wanted to sell more tanks you put ridges (that work well) inside the 28xx tanks to place paper, smooth walls for the 25xx tanks, there's no ridges in the 1500 series. Go to Jobousa.com hosted by Catlabs, there you will find all the information.