Fixing bellows corners

[Froeschli]

So i read the thread on fixing pinholes etc.

But I'm curious to know how one would fix corners specifically. My "new" kodak master view looks like someone scraped something along the corners of the bellows. At least 3 in a row have been sheared off, with the largest hole being about half a mm. Now that is hole in the black, lower fabric, the hole in the upper is a bit bigger.
(Interestingly the calumet bellows are folded so there are no sharp edges.)

One person mentioned cutting the damaged corners off and attaching homemade ones - that idea scares me witless.

But i don't quite "see" the sealant alone working in a place that changes shape as dramatically as the corner.

I am thinking bookbinder's tape (since i have a bunch) on the outside and sealant on the inside.
Won't look so snazzy, but i am planning on using this one as my "carry" camera and leave the calumet (that has sentimental value) for studio work.
This way i won't cry if i drop or damage it, but can still use the same lenses and lens boards. Heavy and bulky, but no added cost.

[Mark Sawyer]

I am thinking bookbinder's tape (since i have a bunch) on the outside and sealant on the inside.

That's the usual method for bellows with very worn corners. Pretty obvious advice, but:

Stretch out the bellows as much as you dare before taping.

Use a flexible fabric paint (available at craft stores) for the inside corners, not too thick, try to work it into the fabric a bit, and let it dry a few days before compressing the bellows.

[LabRat]

That's the usual method for bellows with very worn corners. Pretty obvious advice, but:

Stretch out the bellows as much as you dare before taping.

Use a flexible fabric paint (available at craft stores) for the inside corners, not too thick, try to work it into the fabric a bit, and let it dry a few days before compressing the bellows.

From experience, I learned that bellows corners are under greatest tension when compressed... If extended and treated, when finally compressed the coverings come up a little short, stretching the repaired area...

Best to have bellows about 2/3 extended while fixing that allows you to stretch and release your covering repair while working on it so you can see if repair is too tight on area...

Correct about allowing liquid application to dry MANY days before closing camera, as often whatever was applied for repair can stick to itself when compressed, and tear apart repair area... (liquid grip or other gloppy coatings are prone to this...)

Suggest getting a roll of 2" black artist's tape and putting 1 or 2 layers on the outside, and 1 strip on the inside... If you screw up, it can be carefully removed... But this is a message from above you need a new set of bellows, as it becomes a game of wack-a-mole as new leaks large and small come into the picture...

Get a flashlight inside that bellows and know your enemy...

Steve K

[Maris Rusis]

The best bellows repair tape is 3M type 850 black polyester tape: very thin, strong no-bleed adhesive, opaque, infinitely flexible, does not weather or perish, EXPENSIVE.

[Bob Salomon]

From experience, I learned that bellows corners are under greatest tension when compressed... If extended and treated, when finally compressed the coverings come up a little short, stretching the repaired area...

Best to have bellows about 2/3 extended while fixing that allows you to stretch and release your covering repair while working on it so you can see if repair is too tight on area...

Correct about allowing liquid application to dry MANY days before closing camera, as often whatever was applied for repair can stick to itself when compressed, and tear apart repair area... (liquid grip or other gloppy coatings are prone to this...)

Suggest getting a roll of 2" black artist's tape and putting 1 or 2 layers on the outside, and 1 strip on the inside... If you screw up, it can be carefully removed... But this is a message from above you need a new set of bellows, as it becomes a game of wack-a-mole as new leaks large and small come into the picture...

Get a flashlight inside that bellows and know your enemy...

Steve K

+1!!

[Froeschli]

Suggest getting a roll of 2" black artist's tape and putting 1 or 2 layers on the outside, and 1 strip on the inside... If you screw up, it can be carefully removed... But this is a message from above you need a new set of bellows, as it becomes a game of wack-a-mole as new leaks large and small come into the picture...

Thanks for the advice. I have 2" book binding tape that i used to use on the sides of canvas paintings. It's rather thin and flexible, as well as acid free. Not sure the camera cares, but the glue won't degrade the bellows, which are actually in decent shape otherwise. This was obviously damage done by outside influence.

I paid like 50 bucks for the camera and lens together (really just wanted the lens) so I'm not exactly attached to it. Just thought if i could patch the bellows i might have a camera i can knock about and not worry while the "nice" one remains in the studio. If i can't fix it, then to goodwill it goes. It doesn't look like anyone wants to buy this type monorail camera these days anyhow, and with a bad bellows. Well, it's rather useless.

[Tin Can]

Looks like great tape!

I need Red 1" X 72 yards is $51 USD

I am waiting until I see my old red bellows camera in transit somewhere in US

The best bellows repair tape is 3M type 850 black polyester tape: very thin, strong no-bleed adhesive, opaque, infinitely flexible, does not weather or perish, EXPENSIVE.

[LabRat]

Thanks for the advice. I have 2" book binding tape that i used to use on the sides of canvas paintings. It's rather thin and flexible, as well as acid free. Not sure the camera cares, but the glue won't degrade the bellows, which are actually in decent shape otherwise. This was obviously damage done by outside influence.

I paid like 50 bucks for the camera and lens together (really just wanted the lens) so I'm not exactly attached to it. Just thought if i could patch the bellows i might have a camera i can knock about and not worry while the "nice" one remains in the studio. If i can't fix it, then to goodwill it goes. It doesn't look like anyone wants to buy this type monorail camera these days anyhow, and with a bad bellows. Well, it's rather useless.

My point is you can glue a patch in that seems great, but when compressed, the corners tend to expand outwards often splitting, but by careful taping, you can tape one pleat at a time while compressing pleat to make sure it has enough material not to split...

The camera is well worth fixing and just needs a little luv... The bellows can be fixed, or you might like a WA camera with bag bellows you can make, so consider the possibilities... These are a good camera...

Have fun!!!

Steve K

[Willie]

Best fix is a new bellows. Few worries about that nasty Sudden Surprise light leak when you develop an image after you were going along so well with no light leaks.

Or, use the "Morley Baer Wrap" and before inserting film holder you wrap the whole bellows with your dark cloth. Morley did this for years with his 8x10.

[el french]

Calculate the cost of losing a great image versus the cost of a new bellows.