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Thread: Strobes and Pops

  1. #11

    Re: Strobes and Pops

    Thanks for advice. Not it is clear for me.

  2. #12

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    Re: Strobes and Pops

    I find it sometimes very useful to think in terms of volume, not stops and pops, just because that's what you're really working with; a doubling or halving of light by aperture, or speed or, measured light or a combination, plus filters.

    Halving each volume of light the film is receiving is just as easy but demands a very controlled flash(s) units.

    One more thing you might want to print up, depending on if your lenses have 1/2 or 1/3ed F-Stop divisions, because sitting in a studio in the dark trying to work out that math really sucks and will drain positive energies we all need to confidently do our photography.

    It also looks bad if your client or model has to wait for you to do your sums.

    IMO.

  3. #13

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    Re: Strobes and Pops

    More Power, less math.

  4. #14

    Re: Strobes and Pops

    Quote Originally Posted by Mal Paso View Post
    More Power, less math.
    +1
    Flikr Photos Here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/

    “The secret of getting ahead is getting started.”
    ― Mark Twain

  5. #15
    Tin Can's Avatar
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    Re: Strobes and Pops

    I usually test using X-Ray

    I set my studio scene

    and have trays ready for action

    Almost as fast as Fujiroid

    When I had no shutter for the lens, I turned on Red Safelights in my entire studio

    and shot pops like a Print Test Strip

    My entire 650 sq Blacked out
    Tin Can

  6. #16

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    Re: Strobes and Pops

    I added up the damage:
    For 14,800 WS of power, 12 flash heads, 4 soft boxes, 16, 10+, and 5+ reflectors, barn doors, filter holders, stands, snoot, grids, umbrellas, triggers, cords, including tax and shipping. $2,400 and the market is so slow I doubt I could get that back but that's only 2/3s the price of a single new 2400 WS power pack, no flash head. Didn't need that much power but it's like I bought one studio for the reflectors and another power pack came with and who doesn't like spares?

  7. #17
    Mark Sawyer's Avatar
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    Re: Strobes and Pops

    Quote Originally Posted by Larry H-L View Post
    In my experience, reciprocity failure starts to set in after 8 pops or so.
    Can anyone speak further to working with reciprocity failure during multiple strobe pops?
    "I love my Verito lens, but I always have to sharpen everything in Photoshop..."

  8. #18

    Re: Strobes and Pops

    Color shifts are kinda inevitable if you're multiple popping and shooting color. I've gone up to 20 pops with 375J and I got Very tired of doing that! I have been bracketing, cheap enough with XRAY, not so with Panchromatics. I think you start getting into diminishing returns after so many pops. Sometimes I don't want the light in close, more power! is the answer. Like Mal Paso, I lucked into an astounding value of Biggie strobes for little money. Also Modifiers can cost you a lot of light, I have packs up to 3200J which can get you to F22 or F32 in one pop. The bigger the Modifier, the more the light is spread out, requiring more pops or power, your choice. My choice is more strobe power, enough to do the job. Films and Plates I like go all the way down to about EI 1.50 or a bit less. Like shooting wet plate, you need a lot of strobe power if you want to be spontaneous.
    Flikr Photos Here: https://www.flickr.com/photos/18134483@N04/

    “The secret of getting ahead is getting started.”
    ― Mark Twain

  9. #19
    Tin Can's Avatar
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    Re: Strobes and Pops

    Flashbulbs can be very interesting

    Of course, 1 Pop
    Tin Can

  10. #20

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    Re: Strobes and Pops

    Quote Originally Posted by Tin Can View Post
    Flashbulbs can be very interesting

    Of course, 1 Pop
    I started with 50Bs shooting 4x5 for advertising before I had enough money for strobes. Had a shutter stick and one went off in my hand. Quite painful. They are the size of a 100W bulb with an Edison base.

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