Chamonix vs. Xxxxx?

[Corran]

I wasn't familiar with any of them other than the HZX and PTB so I went to their website. Certainly just at a glance I have no idea what those other cameras do or do not do compared to the HZX and PTB, so you're right! I always get annoyed at companies with too many options that are very similar...

Anyway, just as a reference point, I also have a Shen-Hao PTB-617. That one and the 4x5, which is an older camera I was recently given, are very nice and smooth and don't have any build-quality issues. That's just been my experience. As another small anecdote, the Deardorff cameras I have handled have been exceedingly sloppy and I have always felt them to be extraordinarily overpriced for what they are. But to be fair, they are all much older cameras now, and likely a nicer one or a well-maintained / refurbished one might be excellent. I wouldn't pay the going prices though myself.

[Kiwi7475]

The Chamonix is the best option for a lightweight camera in its price range. You can improve the ground glass by using a Maxwell fresnel but it’s not necessary. Pick the N of F model depending on your movements, focal range, and packability needs.

There’s nothing else to add. Go buy it. More importantly, go shoot.

[Winger]

Another vote for the Chamonix. I have the 4x5 N-1, purchased in 2013. I don't shoot as often as I wish, but it's easy to pack into a bag that I can haul through the woods (for reference, I'm 5'5" and 116 lbs). It can do more than I use for movements, but they're there in case I ever do.
I started with a Cambo monorail and just didn't use it much because it was so ungainly to carry. I haven't tried others, so I can't give you as good a comparison as more experienced shooters here.

[Alan Klein]

I have the Chamonix 45H-1. Since I don't hike, the folding F2 seemed like it would be a nuisance. Hugo from Chamonix recommended the H-1 over the F2. There's no setup. I keep the lens on the camera when I store it in the backpack. It's ready to go. No assembly. The H-1 takes a little more space than the F2 but the convenience is more important to me. I use lenses from 75mm-300mm with the bellows it comes with. I believe it can go up to 350mm. Check with Hugo their rep. in California. hugo zhang <hugoz_2000@yahoo.com> One complaint I have with the H-1 is that the focus is fiddly. YOu need both hands to focus with one and lock with the other leaving a third hand for the loupe. You have to bounce back and forth. Maybe someone else can explain how the focus works on the F-2.
Good luck with whatever you decide.
https://www.chamonixviewcamera.com/cameras/45h1

[AdamD]

This is all great feedback (as always from this forum). I really like what Kiwi7475 said...."More importantly, go shoot."

Thank you. I think I'm good.

[Greg Y]

I have the Chamonix 45H-1. One complaint I have with the H-1 is that the focus is fiddly. YOu need both hands to focus with one and lock with the other leaving a third hand for the loupe. You have to bounce back and forth.
https://www.chamonixviewcamera.com/cameras/45h1

lan

Alan, I use the loupe to check focus, once i've gotten as close as I can with both eyes and no loupe. I don't think view cameras are really meant to be focused with one hand, as you've always got resistance on the rack and pinion focusing mechanism. (I've used Deardorffs, Canhams, Ebony as well as Chamonix, and always found this to be the case)

[Alan Klein]

lan

Alan, I use the loupe to check focus, once i've gotten as close as I can with both eyes and no loupe. I don't think view cameras are really meant to be focused with one hand, as you've always got resistance on the rack and pinion focusing mechanism. (I've used Deardorffs, Canhams, Ebony as well as Chamonix, and always found this to be the case)

Greg, The problem with the H-1 is you need both hands. The left has a locking knob and the right you focus with. SO when you get close, you want to lock it pretty tight so it doesn't;t drift with the right knob. That leaves no hands for the loupe. So what I try to do is focus with the eye as best I can then lock the left knob very tight but still enough to move the focus with the right. Then I hold the loupe with my left hand as I make final knob adjustments with my right. I find it annoying. A single-focus adjustment would be easier.

Then, when I want to tilt the back or front, I need both hands to release the two knobs for tilting. So how do I hold the loupe. Same problems as with focus. Maybe you have a better idea of how to do this? I'm open for solutions.

[Alan Klein]

Here's Chamonix instructions copied here. The underlined portion assumes you have a third hand to hold the loupe.

https://www.chamonixviewcamera.com/cameras/45h1

A few pointers regarding the use of 45H cameras with heavy lenses:

1. Our 45H-1 and 45Hs-1 cameras are designed differently than our 45N-2 and 45F1 cameras. To increase the precision of the camera, we have used a linear focus track. A side effect of this feature is low friction in the camera bed, especially when the camera is tilted with a heavy lens.

2. You may consider using the following two steps to focus when your camera is not in a level position.

The first step: Loosen all the knob locks and use only your eyes (without a loupe) for the initial composition and focusing, then tighten the focus knob locks half way gradually.

The second step: Keep the locks half tightened as it is the only way the focus knobs maintain enough friction. Then use a loupe for fine focus and completely tighten the focus locks after the focus process is finished. Please remember to use one hand to hold the focus knob while the other hand is used to tighten the focus locks, otherwise slight focus shift will occur due to the worm effect of the screw-focus feature.

[Greg Y]

I see your predicament now Alan. I've never used a camera with a low friction focus track, so I don't have a solution for you, other than to suggest dropping Hugo Z a message since he's also a photographer and not just a sales rep for Chamonix.

[Vaughn]

While the Zone VI 8x10 does not have a low-friction focus track, it also takes two hands to tighten. My Chamonix 11x14 takes only one hand...different focusing system altogether.

But with experience and doing basically what you wrote above in #2, second step (partially tighten the locking knob), I adjust focus with the adjustment knob, and when I want to lock focus, I use one hand to maintain the adjusting knob's exact position and then put the other hand back on the locking knob and tighten it. I just have to make sure that the adjustment knob does not move as I tighten the locking knob.

Easy, but I still double check the focus. A thought -- what I actually do is firmly hold the adjustment knob and the camera bed with my fingers at the same time...this gives my hand a reference point to tell if the adjustment knob has moved when tightening the other knob.