Chamonix vs. Xxxxx?

[Alan Klein]

Here's what that first one looked like scanned before editing.

[Kiwi7475]

It’s a matter of taste but for these type of pictures that you posted, I really don’t see the need for a CF.

The fact that you added vignetting to one of them is actually telling, isn’t it, that you don’t mind even a larger effect than what the uncorrected exposure introduces.

[Alan Klein]

It’s a matter of taste but for these type of pictures that you posted, I really don’t see the need for a CF.

The fact that you added vignetting to one of them is actually telling, isn’t it, that you don’t mind even a larger effect than what the uncorrected exposure introduces.

Yes, I noticed that. But I usually don't vignette my shots deliberately. But since it was there anyway, I decided to use the effect. But you're right. That's why I haven't bought a CF for the 75mm. I can still can use my other filters with it. Nor have I bought a set of larger contrast, GND or polarizing pictures for my larger sized 90mm where I have a CF. I just don't know enough of what I want to do yet to make a decision. I may get rid of the 90mm and just keep the 75mm. I'm too new to 4x5 photography. I haven't shot enough yet to see what I like or what works for me.

[Kiwi7475]

Yes, I noticed that. But I usually don't vignette my shots deliberately. But since it was there anyway, I decided to use the effect. But you're right. That's why I haven't bought a CF for the 75mm. I can still can use my other filters with it. Nor have I bought a set of larger contrast, GND or polarizing pictures for my larger sized 90mm where I have a CF. I just don't know enough of what I want to do yet to make a decision. I may get rid of the 90mm and just keep the 75mm. I'm too new to 4x5 photography. I haven't shot enough yet to see what I like or what works for me.

So in short I think you would agree that you should not be too concerned about making getting a cf a top priority. Keep shooting and then see if at some point you hit a point where you see by yourself that you need a filter. Right it doesn’t look like it but your style/subject may evolve. But at this point I wouldn’t sweat it given the investment.

Another option is to keep an eye for them, and jump on one if you see a really good deal. Otherwise you’d have to pay top dollar for them if you can’t afford to wait.

[Alan Klein]

So in short I think you would agree that you should not be too concerned about making getting a cf a top priority. Keep shooting and then see if at some point you hit a point where you see by yourself that you need a filter. Right it doesn’t look like it but your style/subject may evolve. But at this point I wouldn’t sweat it given the investment.

Another option is to keep an eye for them, and jump on one if you see a really good deal. Otherwise you’d have to pay top dollar for them if you can’t afford to wait.

Thanks for the advice; pretty much what I'm doing. Waiting.

[otto.f]

I don’t see the problem anyway, because what’s your end product? Just the Velvia 50? I doubt that. You will mostly make a scan from it, won’t you? In that case you can easily postprocess with the vignetting slide.

[Alan Klein]

I don’t see the problem anyway, because what’s your end product? Just the Velvia 50? I doubt that. You will mostly make a scan from it, won’t you? In that case you can easily postprocess with the vignetting slide.

So what your suggesting is that I use reverse vignetting in Lightroom to lighten the darker edges caused by falloff? Are there any downsides in processing this way? Is there a way to determine an exact setting or do you just go by eye?

[Kiwi7475]

So what your suggesting is that I use reverse vignetting in Lightroom to lighten the darker edges caused by falloff? Are there any downsides in processing this way? Is there a way to determine an exact setting or do you just go by eye?

There’s no downside provided the areas are still within the linear range of the film, otherwise if too dark it will become a nasty gray or show some color shift because the original color has shifted in the under exposure.

There’s no real way to automate this that I know of, since you may have different raise/fall photo to photo.
Also forget it if you use swings or tilts as the circle becomes something else altogether.

[Bob Salomon]

There’s no downside provided the areas are still within the linear range of the film, otherwise if too dark it will become a nasty gray or show some color shift because the original color has shifted in the under exposure.

There’s no real way to automate this that I know of, since you may have different raise/fall photo to photo.
Also forget it if you use swings or tilts as the circle becomes something else altogether.

Much better to use the center filter. Plus it saves a lot of computer time!

[Corran]

It's one slider in Lightroom, if you choose to try it out. Of course as mentioned it also depends on movements applied, but you can also de-center it in Lightroom as well. I would say 20-30 seconds of time to do max.