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Thread: The Variable Contrast Printing Manual by Anchell, Steve

  1. #1

    The Variable Contrast Printing Manual by Anchell, Steve

    Have someone this book in pdf format? Iím interested how to calibrate the VC.
    Any help please?

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    ic-racer's Avatar
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    Re: The Variable Contrast Printing Manual by Anchell, Steve


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    Peter De Smidt's Avatar
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    Re: The Variable Contrast Printing Manual by Anchell, Steve

    May tomorrow be a better day.

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    Re: The Variable Contrast Printing Manual by Anchell, Steve

    What kind of head are you using? Make and model?

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    Tin Can's Avatar
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    Re: The Variable Contrast Printing Manual by Anchell, Steve

    Thanks Peter

    Printed for DR use

    Quote Originally Posted by Peter De Smidt View Post
    2022

  6. #6

    Re: The Variable Contrast Printing Manual by Anchell, Steve

    Omega Superchromega DII

  7. #7

    Re: The Variable Contrast Printing Manual by Anchell, Steve

    I find the book, and I buy.

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    Re: The Variable Contrast Printing Manual by Anchell, Steve

    Amazon.co.uk has some but I do not know if they ship to Romania or not. US Amazon will not ship there. I had a color head but eventually just switched to under lens filters. For split-grade printing it was easier than adjusting the dials in the dark.
    Adventure is worthwhile in itself. ... Never interrupt someone doing what you said couldn't be done. -- Amelia Earhart
    http://www.searing.photography

  9. #9

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    Re: The Variable Contrast Printing Manual by Anchell, Steve

    Why the need to calibrate?

    I use a Beseler 45s head. I consider no filtration to be "grade 2," or "normal." To increase contrast, I add magenta without yellow, and to decrease contrast, I add yellow without magenta. (Cyan always zero.) Very simple and straight forward.

    I really like and use the zone system. (May the force be with you.) That's where I end up doing calibrations for contrast control, based on the given scene. (i.e. N, N+1, N-1, etc.) In my view, much better to have the desired contrast built into the negative.

    When I print, to taste of course, I always end up using magenta filtration between 20 to 30. This is not deliberate; it just ends up this way. I've never used yellow filtration to decrease contrast. So, calibrating VC settings would be of no advantage in this situation. I use no filtration when I print test calibration negatives.

    Not saying this is necessarily better. (Though, it is more me.) Just an alternate approach.

  10. #10

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    Re: The Variable Contrast Printing Manual by Anchell, Steve

    Neil,

    My approach is much the same as yours. I find I like prints made on VC paper with a bit of magenta filtration (around 30 or so) better than those made at a lower-contrast setting. It's something to do with the mid-tone curve I think. I like to calibrate development-time tests to about 30M these days. Back when I used graded papers, I calibrated to Seagull G grade 2.

    Anyway, I don't bother with speed-matching or calibrating paper speed, etc. If I need more contrast, I dial in more magenta; less, I reduce magenta (or add yellow if I'm on that side of "0"). I'm always ratcheting up to 170M or down to 170Y for burning anyway.

    I've learned to guesstimate exposure time changes for changes in contrast settings instead of trying to speed match. Subsequent prints always need refining anyway, so getting in the ballpark is all I need. For larger changes, I'll just make another test strip.

    These days, I think in terms of more or less basic contrast instead of grades. The color head lets me achieve intermediate "grades" easily too, so no more split-developing prints (which I did as a matter of course with graded papers).

    Best,

    Doremus

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