Restoring 4x5 filmholders help

[chemtech]

I just got a Crown Graphic 45 ('51-'52 vintage -- just like me!). The camera appeared to have been in storage for quite a while, and had been in Puerto Rico from documents included, so it has some corrosion. I'll work on that. It also came with 16 film holders. It looks like all need some attention. I ordered Filmoplast-T for repairing the hinges, and will glue a couple that have cracks/breaks in the wood. I'd like to strip or partially strip the finish and re-paint, but I don't know what type of paint to use for the re-finish. I will, of course, use black, but should it be traditional lacquer, or enamel? Or would a more modern water borne finish like WB Lacquer, or WB Polyurethane be OK, or preferred. Personally, I'm leaning toward the black spray can lacquer from the Walmart or another big-box store, but thought I'd ask here for any opinions before I began. Thanks.

[Kevin Crisp]

Since 4x5 film holders are so available and so cheap, I wouldn't bother. Even though I have, in the past, done this. Graflock backs on Crowns are pretty hard on film holders, so I'm not sure wood would be my first choice.

I cringed when I saw "sanding." The flat part of the holders that snugs up against the camera must not be sanded down, you might affect the focus.

[LabRat]

The first thing to do with the holders is to "triage" their condition (most batches of old holders will have duds)...

I'm assuming these are old wooden holders (Graphic/Lisco/Riteway ect wood???)

Old wood holder need to be first checked for warping, expansion, and if light trap is ok...

For warping, use the edge of stainless steel ruler against mating surfaces of holder fronts to see if there is gaps or waves that can cause light leaks when holder is on camera... Look under ruler edge to see if you can spot gaps...

Expansion issues can be where different parts of front of holder are at different heights (like the flap higher/lower than body, or light trap end is different height than edges)...these can be corrected sometimes... There can be shrinkage gaps in seams (causing light leaks???), but can be filled...

Light traps seal out light with/without slide in them so they need to be checked... Take stack of holders in to dim room, and one at a time, pull slide at a time and look into outer slide slot while shining a small bright flashlight into film area towards slot and look carefully for ghosts of light coming through (especially at ends)... Note; keep all slides together with the holders they came from, as there are differences of size, wear etc of slides... Also, throughly vac dust/grit from holder outsides before pulling slides for the first time, so outside grit is not pulled inside trap... Also note before pulling slide if there is excessive scuffing on slide which might indicate there is corrosion inside of metal top light trap covers that cause it... Once clean, you can slowly pull slides to see if they bind, but I repeat, keep slides matched with their original holder...

The light traps can have a nest of fuzz inside, but a shop vac with a slot nozzle sucking from the film side while multi-inserting slide to help dislodge fuzz...

After a selection of holders are made, then fix the hinges, and you can pull slides one at a time and polish the edges, then a good wash for slides in sink with dish detergent, then dry... Examine carefully for cracking of slides... If holder looks worn on the blackening, brush some India ink on the worn spots...

Then when good, leave them outside in the sun with some old RC paper for 10 or so minutes, then develop paper to spot any fogging... Oh, and # holders and slides before this process, and keep notes on all holders...

The camera is another discussion, but I will add here that it is better to try to save the leather, as it was very good, and be restored from impossibly bad to nice usually... (I did a camera that was glowing green from mold, but still came out great!!!)And the wood under on some cameras can be really ugly, while others nice, so there's a gamble there... If re-finishing to wood, poly/oil finishes are consistent and easier... And a issue that comes up with these restorations is metal parts undersides on camera can have corrosion that can affect operation, so keep an eye out for it...

Hope this isn't too much info/work, but all steps can be done in spare time, and is fun and interesting... (Beats watching bad TV...)

Good luck!!!

Steve K

[BrianShaw]

I agree with Kevin. It would be much easier and cost-effective to buy some in better condition.

[LabRat]

I agree with Kevin. It would be much easier and cost-effective to buy some in better condition.

True for a couple/few holders, but with a significant # batch of holders you end up with, seems a waste to toss into trash...

Had 30ish nice holders I had permanent "loaned" out (loaning is the best way to get rid of something), to find only had 8 left, so had to dig through a box of about 75 holders I inherited from a former aerospace photographer... Got over 3/4's of them working... And most had been used to shoot historic work of early space program, and still marked Northrup/Douglas/USAF/Paramount/MGM etc... And inside some graffiti from the photo teams...

No regrets on this project... ;-)

Steve K

[Kevin Crisp]

I just searched "Graflex" on our local CL. Somebody is selling perhaps 20 Graflex Type V film holders in nice shape for $15 each. Depends what your time is worth.

[LabRat]

I just searched "Graflex" on our local CL. Somebody is selling perhaps 20 Graflex Type V film holders in nice shape for $15 each. Depends what your time is worth.

5-10 bucks each seems to be the going rate... Not bad unless you need a lot... Expect some duds though if you buy a #...

Steve K

[chemtech]

Ok, thanks for all the suggestions, however:

No one actually addressed my question, so let me clarify:
Most of the holders are the real Graflex type with aluminum on the pull ends, and wooden rails. The aluminum has been painted over multiple times covering previous owners holder numbers. That is the part I want to strip (Kevin, I never mentioned "sanding") and the question was, if a particular type of paint was preferred for those, or if, since they aren't really in contact with anything, any paint would work. As for the rails, I don't plan on doing anything to them as far as "painting" them or actually doing anything to them. They appear to have been stained or ebonized, and have only a minimal finish (a light oil or maybe a coat of wax, or maybe left natural).

I realize that it would probably be a better idea to just buy new, or get good used ones, but I'm recently retired and am just getting back into analog photography so I have the time to mess with restoring the camera and film holders. And I'm one of those people who has over the years "restored" a house (after a fire), maintained a rental or two, and restored a '55 Chevy, so I thought I'd try a camera. I think I have the skillset and tools to at least, try.

LabRat -- Interesting handle -- I recently retired from 45 years as a Registered Medical Technologist, with most of my work in Clinical Chemistry hence my Chemtech handle ("LabRat" was taken).

[Tin Can]

Many of us worked in all kinds of labs, I was Engine Product Test most of my working days, still can't hear too well

and more are hooked on restoring anything old

I blacken a lot of LF things with big Magic Marker

[Higo]

As a newcomer I would like to stress how informative these replies have been, even when not addressing the precise question. Thanks everyone.