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Thread: Is this Bromide Drag? Help!

  1. #11

    Re: Is this Bromide Drag? Help!

    Quote Originally Posted by horseman89 View Post
    Any other equipment you'd recommend for stand?
    I strongly suggest you disavow "stand" development. Its 99% horsepucky and will only introduce problems that are easily resolved by embracing proper development agitation technique. The mythology surrounding "stand" development is powerful and persistent, and unfortunately many aspiring large format photographers get seduced into thinking this will be some magic elixir that will iron out any potential issues their exposures may have. It won't. You'll get streaks and blotches and uneven development, just like what we see pictured here. Horseman, do yourself a favor and stick with what manufacturers state: agitate as recommended throughout the development time. If you feel you need to compress the tonal scale of an image, then learn how to expose a bit more and develop a bit less. This will be a much more reliable approach to film development, and you will avoid streaks and marks on your film.

  2. #12

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    Re: Is this Bromide Drag? Help!

    What Paul says - give up stand. Do semi-stand if you have to, but to be brutally honest, there's absolutely nothing wrong with old fashioned agitation. A few inversions per minute and Bob's your uncle. With the benefit that your negatives are ready for printing even quicker.
    You might still get some small marks where the Mod54 clamps hold the film; if you want to get rid of those, consider a Jobo 25xx with the N-type reel, or, even better (IMO) develop one by one in a tray in the dark. It's my preferred approach for sheet film; perfect control, perfect evenness...

  3. #13

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    Re: Is this Bromide Drag? Help!

    Quote Originally Posted by koraks View Post
    What Paul says - give up stand. Do semi-stand if you have to, but to be brutally honest, there's absolutely nothing wrong with old fashioned agitation. A few inversions per minute and Bob's your uncle. With the benefit that your negatives are ready for printing even quicker.
    You might still get some small marks where the Mod54 clamps hold the film; if you want to get rid of those, consider a Jobo 25xx with the N-type reel, or, even better (IMO) develop one by one in a tray in the dark. It's my preferred approach for sheet film; perfect control, perfect evenness...
    Thanks for the technical rec, Koraks!

    I know how to develop just fine. Just like to experiment with alt techniques. Appreciate all of the feedback!

  4. #14

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    Re: Is this Bromide Drag? Help!

    Quote Originally Posted by Tin Can View Post
    Can we assume you developed 4 sheets 4x5 at one go?

    With 8 ml Rodinol per 1000 ml for an hour

    Some think Rodinol needs at least 10 ml for 80 sq inches

    and it is fully exhausted well before 20 minutes
    actually, 6 sheets at once! Most times have come out fine, just noticed this extra strong effect this batch. Thanks for the feedback.

  5. #15

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    Re: Is this Bromide Drag? Help!

    I am however curious about why so many photographers seem to get so agitated (boom) when stand dev is brought up... but maybe thats for another thread. Why clamp down on creative exploration? Thats why we're all here... right?

  6. #16
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    Re: Is this Bromide Drag? Help!

    I have used only Rodinol for 7 years

    I mostly use gas burst in tanks, a 1 second burst every 10 seconds seldom exceeding 10 minutes

    I vary concentration from 1/20 to 1/100

    I like simple same same

    Right now I have 19 full bottles of it

    maybe I try stand again, maybe not
    where is the monolith

  7. #17

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    Re: Is this Bromide Drag? Help!

    Quote Originally Posted by Tin Can View Post
    I have used only Rodinol for 7 years

    I mostly use gas burst in tanks, a 1 second burst every 10 seconds seldom exceeding 10 minutes

    I vary concentration from 1/20 to 1/100

    I like simple same same

    Right now I have 19 full bottles of it

    maybe I try stand again, maybe not

    Now THAT is interesting Tin Can. I'd be curious to hear more about your setup. Or, any trustworthy links explaining how one might do gas burst agitation?

  8. #18

    Re: Is this Bromide Drag? Help!

    Quote Originally Posted by horseman89 View Post
    I am however curious about why so many photographers seem to get so agitated (boom) when stand dev is brought up... but maybe thats for another thread. Why clamp down on creative exploration? Thats why we're all here... right?
    Nobody is suggesting you not try "creative" variations of process. But the fact is that 90% of those who try the technique eventually find it only introduces undesirable effects, and you often end up with a lot of ruined film. I'll remind you that you started this thread (with examples) to find out why your film had been ruined by development streaks. I concluded that you yourself had decided these were not desirable effects. But if these experiments make you happy, then by all means, carry on.

  9. #19
    Tin Can's Avatar
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    Re: Is this Bromide Drag? Help!

    Watch this first, my youtube made some time ago, Gas Burst

    If you search this forum and everywhere else there are more answers than 8 years ago

    Search the forum ONLY this way, type this in google. large format photography forum "adding your search terms where i typed this"

    and always scroll down any thread to see what is at bottom

    Quote Originally Posted by horseman89 View Post
    Now THAT is interesting Tin Can. I'd be curious to hear more about your setup. Or, any trustworthy links explaining how one might do gas burst agitation?
    where is the monolith

  10. #20

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    Re: Is this Bromide Drag? Help!

    Regarding scale-compression, two suggestions. See if you can find John Sexton's description of his 'slogger' technique with highly dilute developer (he uses, or used, Kodak RT with Tmax). It involves a special tray insert you can try to make yourself or have fabricated, to hold the film in a tray and allow very gentle periodic agitation.

    Another approach, which some of us here use, is called Selective Latent Image Manipulation Technique (SLIMT), involved highly-dilute efficyanide bleach prior to (usually) Normal-with-a-capital-N development, thus allowing daylight tank development. It's quite versatile, and the same technique can be used on prints. Look up http://www.davidkachel.com/assets/cont_pt3.htm
    Philip U.

    Sine scientia ars nihil est. (Without science/knowledge, art is nothing.)
    https://www.flickr.com/photos/156933346@N07/

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