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Thread: Lupex Paper

  1. #21

    Join Date
    Nov 1999
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    San Clemente, California
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    3,445

    Re: Lupex Paper

    Quote Originally Posted by jmdavis View Post
    ...https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CHPjUQUoOYM Compares it to MGIV contact print.
    That Lupex print is excessively contrasty and ugly green. The second issue might be readily tamed by means of selenium toning.

    My experience with Lupex is that it needs a negative tailored to the high paper contrast. Also, a much more neutral print right without toning can be obtained by using ADOX MCC developer.

  2. #22

    Join Date
    Feb 2020
    Location
    Virginia
    Posts
    59

    Re: Lupex Paper

    I'm looking at the actual print, it is not green and has a contrast that I find appealing. It also has the "glow" that I associate with silver chloride paper and Amidol. Both of the prints in the video were toned in KRST.

  3. #23

    Join Date
    Jun 2015
    Location
    Glasgow
    Posts
    737

    Re: Lupex Paper

    This could be a horrible shock to some that are deeply emotionally invested in chloride papers, but modern multigrade papers and Lupex may be closer in terms of their basic composition (many modern variable contrast papers use very high chloride content emulsions) than most assume. Thus I'm not totally surprised that a developer (MCC) intended for neutrality with a modern variable contrast paper, gives decent neutrality with a pure chloride paper.

  4. #24

    Join Date
    Sep 2011
    Location
    Slovenia
    Posts
    129

    Re: Lupex Paper

    My experience with Adox Lupex is limited to a couple of sheets only. Developed in Ilford Multigrade the tonality was distinctly cool even bluish.
    Linhof Kardan re

  5. #25
    Andrej Gregov
    Join Date
    Nov 2010
    Location
    Seattle, WA
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    136

    Re: Lupex Paper

    I think Tim was just out to show how prints can look different using different materials for his viewers. That said, the comparison to me isn't that helpful for learning about material differences as he's switching around too many variables (eg. a colder tone paper versus warmtone, different developers, etc). A better test with respect to the conversation in this thread would have been comparing a warm tone VC paper to Lupex, both processed in Amidol. MAS provides a mod to his Amidol formula for use with traditional VC papers. In that comparison, you'd likely see both papers more similar than not. Also missing from the video was Tim's printing specifics. For example, was he using an 8x10 analog or digital neg? If digital neg, ideally you'll need to make a curve for each paper tested--that would control contrast differences mentioned earlier in the thread. Finally, I'd be interested to know if he was exposing with a lightbulb or enlarger lamp. MAS exposed with a 300wt lightbulb mounted at the top of his darkroom. I expose Lodima with a lightbulb. I would think Lupex would be too slow for enlarger exposure? Again, I'm sure Tim simply wanted to show viewers that prints can look different based on your materials and I think he succeeded there. For the purposes of this thread and knowing how tightly Bob ties his workflow/materials to his final prints, I'm not sure there's much to glean from the video.

    Note for Bob on Amidol earlier in the tread. +1 buying from Artcraft--MAS also recommended Artcraft during my workshop. I bought my Amidol through Formulary and it's rumored to be a lesser quality of Amidol. For example, I can get a little black blotching on the print from the Amidol. Doesn't appear much on the emulsion side of the Lodima but is easy to see on the back of the print. Don't know exactly if the Amidol quality is to blame but I will next purchase Amidol from Artcraft based on opinions here in the forum.

  6. #26

    Join Date
    Oct 2015
    Posts
    995

    Re: Lupex Paper

    Quote Originally Posted by agregov View Post
    Note for Bob on Amidol earlier in the tread. +1 buying from Artcraft--MAS also recommended Artcraft during my workshop. I bought my Amidol through Formulary and it's rumored to be a lesser quality of Amidol. For example, I can get a little black blotching on the print from the Amidol. Doesn't appear much on the emulsion side of the Lodima but is easy to see on the back of the print. Don't know exactly if the Amidol quality is to blame but I will next purchase Amidol from Artcraft based on opinions here in the forum.
    In my experience, the Chinese Amidol will produce this black blotching / spots. It's useable, but you need to filter it after putting through only one or two prints. The English Amidol, which is what I've now used for years, has never had this issue. The English version would definitely be my recommendation.

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