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Thread: Yet another Rubberized FPS recovery technique

  1. #1

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    Yet another Rubberized FPS recovery technique

    Wanted to share a new thing I tried. Hope it’s not heresy or old news but I stumbled on this while trying to do the acrylic resurfacing technique but wasn’t sure how to soak the curtain in paint thinner in order to scrape it clean first. Turns out you can kind of reliquify the rubberized coating in place and it’ll redeposit in the cracks and be light tight. Here’s a unprofessional little video:https://youtu.be/I8Cz3pnuKRk
    Also sorry I’m realizing that might should have gone in DIY

    Moved, thanks! --Oren
    Last edited by Oren Grad; 7-Oct-2020 at 19:39.

  2. #2
    jp's Avatar
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    Re: Yet another Rubberized FPS recovery technique

    Very cool; thanks!

  3. #3
    Tin Can's Avatar
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    Re: Yet another Rubberized FPS recovery technique

    Yes, thank you!
    Tin Can

  4. #4

    Re: Yet another Rubberized FPS recovery technique

    For future reference, can I recommend that you change the title to include "focal plane shutter"? I had no idea what FPS (frames per second?) was until I read the text.
    Last edited by Jason Greenberg Motamedi; 8-Oct-2020 at 09:10.

  5. #5

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    Re: Yet another Rubberized FPS recovery technique

    Oof sorry. I don’t forum much but I should have known better . Is there a way to change it now?

  6. #6
    Ron (Netherlands)'s Avatar
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    Re: Yet another Rubberized FPS recovery technique

    So what is actually the working substance in your "Lacquer thinner" ? can't read the small letters from your film.

    ...did it dry fully or did the rubber become sticky?
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  7. #7

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    Re: Yet another Rubberized FPS recovery technique

    I used klean strip laquer thinner although I assume any strong nonpolar solvent might work. MSDS says it’s about 1/3 each methanol, acetone, and misc alkanes. Once it evaporated the rubber was not sticky. I applied a lot of pledge to hopefully keep it from becoming too dry and cracking along the previous faults. I will report back in a week or two once I get the shutter reinstalled and try it in the field for a bit.
    Last edited by rmdorman; 9-Oct-2020 at 08:10.

  8. #8
    makiflex
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    Re: Yet another Rubberized FPS recovery technique

    I did some experiments to renew the coating. You can dissolve the coating well with alcohol. However, it becomes brittle again after it dries. This is due to the binder, which has lost its flexibility after decades and does not soften again after drying. After tests with several coatings, a mixture of black latex and black acrylic paint (not varnish!) has proven to be the best. After dissolving the old layer, I remove the pigment and coat the cloth with this mixture. This remains nice and flexible after drying. So I now also make new closure cloths. It is not worthwhile to apply the mixture only over the original layer, because the layer becomes too thick overall and the brittleness does not go away completely. To apply a thin layer, my finger has proven to be the best tool. I massage the mixture into the fabric with my finger and the cloth stays nice and thin.

  9. #9

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    Re: Yet another Rubberized FPS recovery technique

    Sounds nice! I should have posted an update but I had the same experience, that the lack of rubberizer led quickly to new cracks. I did however have durable (>1 year) success with flexseal. I applied it as a spray and spot-treated with the flex seal that came in a paint can.

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